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Posted

This is an instructional video about Dive Bombs and how to run them.

dpkZcXPcH48

Posted

nice little instructional video.

Now for a couple questions. Why not attach it to the leader, say close to the lead? Or why not attach it to the backing right after the lead? Also have you tried to attach them straight to your line(like power pro)? will they hold to that small of a diameter? If so I can really use these for my walley fishing.

Also what do they roughly cost?

Posted
nice little instructional video.

Now for a couple questions. Why not attach it to the leader, say close to the lead? Or why not attach it to the backing right after the lead? Also have you tried to attach them straight to your line(like power pro)? will they hold to that small of a diameter? If so I can really use these for my walley fishing.

Also what do they roughly cost?

Andy,

A couple of weeks ago I spent a few hours on the lake testing the depths I achieved with them. See this post for more information on the depths.

You can attach the dive bombs to any line. ie....mono, braided, copper, lead core, or even wire.

Costs.....I have not seen them cheaper than here.

Posted

I just checked out the Dive Bombs pictured at the link above.

I'm wondering ... Why the change in Dive Bomb design from the one piece molded and painted lead design with the rubber pin to the steel upper part and black pin??

I'm just guessing that it's the cost of lead.

Posted
I just checked out the Dive Bombs pictured at the link above.

I'm wondering ... Why the change in Dive Bomb design from the one piece molded and painted lead design with the rubber pin to the steel upper part and black pin??

I'm just guessing that it's the cost of lead.

The redesigned dive bombs have the same amount of lead in them as the old ones. Now all of the lead is in the planning surface. This made them wider than the old ones, which equals more planning surface. The rolled part that the tapered pin goes through on the old ones was 100% lead. They would open up some over time. Once in a while, they needed to be rebent.

Posted
I just checked out the Dive Bombs pictured at the link above.

I'm wondering ... Why the change in Dive Bomb design from the one piece molded and painted lead design with the rubber pin to the steel upper part and black pin??

I'm just guessing that it's the cost of lead.

The newer version is superior. The new line attachment portion is made of stainless steel that will not deform. The S.S. version probably cost more to manufacture than the older 100% lead ones.:) As the saying goes, "New and improved".

Posted

It is a great video!

I might look into a professional magazine (GLA May '08) star for future videos though!!!

  • 1 month later...
Posted

Any chance of a vidio on In Line board attachment. I can never seem to get them to not slip. Any help would be appreciated. Great idea by the way.

Posted
Any chance of a vidio on In Line board attachment. I can never seem to get them to not slip. Any help would be appreciated. Great idea by the way.

I am planning on doing one.

What kind of boards are you using? What do you mean by "slip"? Do you mean releasing?

Posted

Just a little more info. The change was not only to improve the original but the original manufacturer was not able to meet demand and was replaced with the manufacturer that makes the Stinger downrigger balls and supply is no longer a problem. If any of you happen to be in Manistee Insta Launch Campground has them even cheaper. On leadcore you want to attach to the middle to maintain the action that lead line gives the lure so keeping half of the line behind the Dive Bomb does not change the up and down actin of the line. These are new enough that any info you have to share on copper, braid, mono etc would ber appreciated as many of us that have ran these a bunch have only used it for leadcore but as stated above it can be used on any line.

Posted
One of these days I'm going try the one and two oz ahead of my crawler harnesses for walleye.:)

Hey Frank....How about the next time you go fishing? Let me quote someone from the site. "Get er done"! :D

Posted
Hey Frank....How about the next time you go fishing? Let me quote someone from the site. "Get er done"! :D

You know me Mike, I'm old school.:) When things aren't broke I don't try and fix em. But as per your request, I'll try one of the one ounce next time out. I'm hoping the one oz DBs will come close to what a 2 oz BB will do. I may just let one out dry to see where it bumps bottom. My crew gets cornfused enough as it is.:) I'll throw this curve ball into the mix, and it will give me something more to growl at them about. Gitter Done.:lol:

  • 9 months later...
Posted

That was very informative. I have never used these but after watching your video, I can think a few situations that they will fit into my program. Thanks for posting that.

Posted

I tried some of these last fall and had alot of problems with it sliding down line.I do think I had the old model as the holding pin was a soft rubber and broke very easly when removing,and when it kept slipping down braided line we tried to use pliers to get it a lil tighter and it just opened up?We started with 4 of these and by the end of day had 1 that was still usable,but we did catch salmon on these in the channel in 20ft of water. If I rember right, these cost $5. each and gave up on them but if they have been redesigned I will pick up 2 and see how they work now as they did catch fish. I like the idea of their ease of use and when fishing pressure is heavy it cant hurt to have something different in the water.

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