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Posted

How many of you use a full core for something besides a full core? ie......2 color, 5 color, 7 color, etc, etc, etc.....

The one thing that always comes up when people talk about this, is that the rod tip wears on the lead core if you have less than a full core out. I use medium and medium light action rods. Every time I check, all of my rod tips are pointing directly at the boards when I am running core, or even flat lines with boards.

If it is pointing directly at the board, how is this wearing on the core?

Posted

Just 2 color and 8 color. I'm thinking of adding two 5 color setups. I may just turn the 8 color into a 5 color. I was thinking of using snap weights if the fish are a little deeper. With snap weights and 5 color core I would cut the length of line out behind the boat.:)

Posted

I guess I need to clarify slightly. What I am talking about is using a full core as a 2 color or 5 color, etc, etc, etc.....

You still have some lead at the end of your rod. Everyone always says it creates wear at the rod tip on the lead core.

Posted

The line tends to get pinched and then break if you don't run it all out with a standard rod tip.. I run twilli tip on my lead core rods which allows for running a partial core out without creating a pinch point.

Mike

Posted
I guess I need to clarify slightly. What I am talking about is using a full core as a 2 color or 5 color, etc, etc, etc.....

You still have some lead at the end of your rod. Everyone always says it creates wear at the rod tip on the lead core.

Your original post was OK.:) Sometimes threads tend to wander off course a touch.:) I always run the core all the way out. I just started using it, and the GR8 information provided here taught me to NEVA run it out partially. :) Does anyone besides CohoTroller use the TWILI Tips for core??? The Twili tips are inexpensive and may possibly be the answer to the wear problems related to running out only a portion of the core. The only other problem that I could see with doing this is attaching a planer board to the core.

Posted

There have been previous threads on other message boards debating this subject. Some guys say they run partial cores without any problems but many more say they have the lead core eventually break at the rod tip.

My personal experience has been that every time I've tried to run lead core with some of the lead line rubbing on the tip, the line broke. Tried twilli tips and it made no difference. Each time it breaks you're talking about $50 in tackle.

As far as running the rods angled to point toward the in-line board, I've never seen anyone do this. You'd have to have your rod almost parallel to the water like a dipsey rod and even then, it would be difficult to rotate the rod holder for-aft to have the rod pointed exactly at the board. I think this is almost impossible especially if you run more than one lead line on a side. You will end up having the lead line rub against the rod tip. As the in-line board moves due to wave action, the lead line will keep rubbing against the rod tip.

If you're asking for opinions, I couldn't recommend running lead core this way.

As far as having two segments of five colors with enough mono spliced in between so you can run either a half core or full core without ever having lead line rubbing on the rod tip, I've tried this and it works O.K. especially with in-line boards. Doesn't work as well with the big boards. I would have enough mono in between so you have all of the second five colors on the reel when the first five are all in the water.

Good Luck.

Joe

Posted
I guess I need to clarify slightly. What I am talking about is using a full core as a 2 color or 5 color, etc, etc, etc.....

You still have some lead at the end of your rod. Everyone always says it creates wear at the rod tip on the lead core.

I would think the worry would be.....

I'm using my full core rod and I clip a board on after letting 2 colors out.

Wouldn't ya be more stressed out about "pinching" the core and weakening it vs the wear and tear on a tip?

I mean your bringing the core in (lets say full core) anyway with a 20lb king, its going to go through the stress of the tip anyway, but the weak point on the core that I had my board clipped to broke off and the king got away!

Follow me?

Posted

I kept a close eye on my lead core rods today. The rod tips do not point directly at the boards. My rigger rods are the ones that were pointed straight. I see how this could create a week spot.

Posted
I kept a close eye on my lead core rods today. The rod tips do not point directly at the boards. My rigger rods are the ones that were pointed straight. I see how this could create a week spot.

Fishing in 3-5's with people blowing chunks, how the heck could anything be pointing where it was supposed to be pointing?????

Posted
Fishing in 3-5's with people blowing chunks, how the heck could anything be pointing where it was supposed to be pointing?????

LMAO. I have been looking for a crew like that all year. I think it helps the fishing with that chumming going on.:lol:

Posted

Other than the rod tip causing breakage issues I have found an even bigger culprit in core breakage this year...tangles. Most times you can salvage your cores by untwisting the lines and get it all untangled. If the line crimps or bends in half, the lead can be damaged and can sometimes twist and bend inside the sheath. After one tangle I remember a small piece of lead sticking out of the core. I let it back out and the core broke at that spot when a fish hit it. I will try to manipulate any tangles out such as to remove all of the kinks and twists, and I will cut and remove any bad sections now instead of sending them back out. A quick way of retying them on the water is remove the lead from both ends, and join them with a Uni-Uni knot.

Posted

I have different rods/reels for each core set up that i have. I do this so the the dacron sheath and lead core doesnt wear or kink at the rod tip when trolling.

When i set up my rods i have 250-300 yds of 30# PP backer. Because of its thin diameter i can get more on a reel, compared to mono or dacron of similar # test. Next i add in a 50' section of 30# mono for attaching the board and letting the core get down, then "X" amount of colors, then a 40' leader of 25# mono or fluorocarbon leader. Youll notice that i started at 30# and went down to 25#. I do this so that if i break something, hopefully its the leader and not the core or backer. IMHO losing a lure or flasher/fly/spoon/etc...is better than losing the core or backer....As far as reels, i run Penns....320 GTi's for 2-5 color and 330's for 7-10 color. For my rods i run 10' dipsey rods.

When i let it out i let our all the core and some or all of the mono backer. No matter how much mono i let out i always attach the board to the mono. The mono does a few things. It holds well in the inline board release, doesnt saw the rear pin in half on the back of my walleye boards, and it allows me to slightly adjust the depth of my core. Because I have 50' of mono to play with I can also vary the amount of mono backer out and manipulate the depth slightly.

Works for me.....Good luck

  • 4 weeks later...
Posted

I learned 20 years ago while spring fishing for landlocks that if u run the lead core on the tip it will weaken and break at that point. Coated leadcore stands up a little better.

chris

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