Craig S Posted May 4, 2020 Posted May 4, 2020 Looking for advice on how to keep the line from breaking when a big salmon hits my wire diver rig (Magnum Dipsy). I use a shock absorber and fish with a 30# leader, but when a large fish hits, either the leader breaks or the wire breaks, usually right after the hookset. I use Okuma Convector reels, and the drag needs to be tight to prevent the line from paying out while trolling. Would adding another rubber snubber help? Any advice it appreciated!
jdh Posted May 4, 2020 Posted May 4, 2020 Something's not working here (obviously because you're snapping off). Knots aren't being tried right. Drags are not smooth enough. Diver release is too tight. Wire quality wire isn't good - or old, or it's allowed to kink. What brand of leader and wire do you have? I've been running 25 or 30 on flouro leaders for years, and have snapped off like 2 divers - due to wire links. Used to run snubbers but find i get better hookups without. 1
R3Fishing Posted May 5, 2020 Posted May 5, 2020 I had the same problem two years ago, I broke off and lost multiple dipsey's and rigs. I loosened the tension on my dipsey and my drag is set so line will come out of the reel once in a while when trolling but when a fish hits, its rips the wire out. Then I let the fish run as long as it wants and then start working in the fish. I always check the first 20 feet of wire as well multiple times per year because kinks will definitely break you off. I'm probably $200 in the hole from the set ups I've lost due to broken wire!!! That didn't make the wife real happy when I have to replace things multiple times per year. 2
Craig S Posted May 5, 2020 Author Posted May 5, 2020 Thanks a ton - The wire is 7-strand Blood Run made for wire divers (at least 30#) and 30# flouro leader about 6 feet with snubber. I use quality roller-guide 9 foot rods, Eagle Claw and Okuma. The wire kinks might have been the issue this time since it was the first time using that rod this year. Also going to check the dipsy tension so it releases more easily. What knots do you use to tie the snap swivel to the wire? Interesting about the hook-up. Should i try leaving the rod in the holder when a fish hits for the first 5-10 seconds or so? Not sure which is best have lost them either way, whether i grab the rod or when it sits in holder and then snaps. Thanks for the feedback, It has been one of the hottest rods on my boat since i started with it 3-4 years ago. But the truly big fish seem to break off every time!
jerryriggin Posted May 5, 2020 Posted May 5, 2020 It's not the wire. Loosen the drag, check setting on the diver, and quit setting the hook on a diver. I use 50lb mono for leader between snubber and flasher and 25lb for spoons. Haven't lost a diver in years or broke off a flasher.
jerryriggin Posted May 5, 2020 Posted May 5, 2020 Always store wire with tension, I trim back curly q's every few trips. And use twilli tips on the rods eagle claw rollers suck.
J.D Posted May 17, 2020 Posted May 17, 2020 I set my drags just tight enough to stop the clicker. You can always tighten the drag a bit after the first big run. I have never "set the hook" with a wire diver and have never broken a fish off using this technique. 1
Craig S Posted May 17, 2020 Author Posted May 17, 2020 Thank you. I use okuma convectors and think I have the drag set lightly but will have to modify.
Delta Dawn Posted May 24, 2020 Posted May 24, 2020 Loosen the drag and then install a rubber band to hold The wire from Paying out!
Craig S Posted June 5, 2020 Author Posted June 5, 2020 How and where do you suggest installing a rubber band (to stop the line from paying out), on the inside of the spool or mandrel? Just trying to imagine where and having trouble.
1HI4X Posted June 10, 2020 Posted June 10, 2020 How and where do you suggest installing a rubber band (to stop the line from paying out), on the inside of the spool or mandrel? Just trying to imagine where and having trouble. He’s referring to half-hitching the rubber band around the wire directly in front of the reel, then hook the rubber band around the reel or handle. Sent from my iPhone using Great Lakes Fisherman Mobile App
1HI4X Posted June 10, 2020 Posted June 10, 2020 I have to agree with jdh. All of those could definitely be your issue. You could also have a sharp point in your rod rollers or tip. Where are you breaking off? After the dipsy, at the rod tip, etc? That will help diagnose. Sent from my iPhone using Great Lakes Fisherman Mobile App
Craig S Posted June 10, 2020 Author Posted June 10, 2020 Thanks on the rubber band tips - assume the rubber band hitch will have enough friction to hold on the wire and not slide....I'll try it! The breakoffs are rarely on the wire, but first time out this year i didnt cut the first 10-20 feet off and retie so that was the problem that particular time. Mainly the flouro leader breaks (i increased from 30# to 40#) or like the last time the actual manufactures hook knot failed and i lost the meat head. With the increase in leader and the rubber band trick I'm hoping the line will pay out easier when a large fish strikes, thanks so much!
1HI4X Posted June 10, 2020 Posted June 10, 2020 Thanks on the rubber band tips - assume the rubber band hitch will have enough friction to hold on the wire and not slide....I'll try it! The breakoffs are rarely on the wire, but first time out this year i didnt cut the first 10-20 feet off and retie so that was the problem that particular time. Mainly the flouro leader breaks (i increased from 30# to 40#) or like the last time the actual manufactures hook knot failed and i lost the meat head. With the increase in leader and the rubber band trick I'm hoping the line will pay out easier when a large fish strikes, thanks so much!Definitely check your diver tension. The shock absorber will help but wire has zero stretch so it’s important that the diver releases and then lets the drag do the work. I try to keep the diver release as light as possible, sometimes having to pull it back in, tighten the tension, and reset it because it was too light and tripped on its own. Sent from my iPhone using Great Lakes Fisherman Mobile App
Delta Dawn Posted June 10, 2020 Posted June 10, 2020 I Loosen the drag so it just starts to click out and then I put the rubber band on and it’ll hold the wire Until the fish strike and breaks the rubber band then I start To Tighten the Drag and fight the fish! Something’s Gotta give so it might as well be the rubber band no more lost tackle due to having to drag too tight some people wonder why the snaps and Hooks straight out it’s because they’ have there drags Set too tight! Take care and good fishing
Luke Tuccini Posted October 26, 2020 Posted October 26, 2020 I was able to fix Okuma drag issues with a trip to Tuna's Reel Troubles in Ludington, Mich after same type issue after drowning a few fish on planers. Couldn't find "sweet spot" on drag - either too loose and line would keep coming out, or too tight and then fish would drown because reel wouldn't let line out. Tuna has website and will ship. Also premium Tackle store Chuck's nearby and they sell reels and have Tuna put new drags in New reels too. 1
Luke Tuccini Posted October 26, 2020 Posted October 26, 2020 Also drags on the new Okuma 55's are silky smooth but it's a big heavy reel. A bit large for any younger kids.
CJ428 Posted December 8, 2020 Posted December 8, 2020 I had trouble with Vanish Florocarbon breaking too easily - testing w a pull gage found it breaking at 60% of rated strength.
jerryriggin Posted December 13, 2020 Posted December 13, 2020 It's called vanish for a reason your bait will disappear
Rkool Posted April 6, 2021 Posted April 6, 2021 I heard that Blood run wire was breaking and know many changed to Mason. Also some back the drag off a small amount after the hook up to exhaust the fish. One more thing I feel mono may have more stretch
Rkool Posted April 6, 2021 Posted April 6, 2021 Also a little longer leader off the dipsys, like 9-10’
Salmon Catcher Posted February 21, 2022 Posted February 21, 2022 My charter boat may or may not use magnum dipsey during June - September. We use Torpedo 19 strand wire 40 lb, no snubber. #50 floro past diver all the way to the fly. Please note, when tying knots on floro it must be wet else degrades and will brakes at that point. Magnum dipsey do catch large salmon and weather permitting we have one rig set that way. April -May we use planer boards with lead core wire, steel weighted lines under 200', Slide diver light bite and lake trout rigs. All through the year most active rods are lead core, steel weighted lines by Torpedo Fishing Products up to 400' long and cut bait rigs. 2
brew1 Posted May 10, 2022 Posted May 10, 2022 What lengths of 19 strand torpedo wire do you typically run or find to be the most productive? Did you make a switch from copper?
Delta Dawn Posted May 10, 2022 Posted May 10, 2022 1-200ft no l like copper only because if something happens to the copper I can fix it real easy on the boat no tools needed to repair , just cutting pliers and A haywire splice and you are good to go I like Morgan’s copper the best I think I try them all and they make a Superior copper line 1
1HI4X Posted May 10, 2022 Posted May 10, 2022 What lengths of 19 strand torpedo wire do you typically run or find to be the most productive? Did you make a switch from copper? You’re talking about a different kind of line (weighted steel). This discussion pertains to fishing divers on wire line. Sent from my iPhone using Great Lakes Fisherman
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