Gnarf Posted May 2, 2015 Posted May 2, 2015 Hey guys. Just wondering for those of you out there that use coated cable, which method of attachment do you use?Not sure if I should try it with a rigger swivel or just tie it straight?
SeaCatMich Posted May 3, 2015 Posted May 3, 2015 When I had a Depth Raider I used a Klincher. The rivet that goes through the body to hold the snap swivel was replaced with a bolt (non stainless) and 2" of extra stripped coated cable wire run through the U shaped fitting and terminated on the bolt. All of the stripped wire, the bolt and the snap swivel covered in a couple of coats of liquid electrical tape with the snap open so all of it was coated too. Once dried the snap could be connected to the probe and allow for removal of the probe from the rigger. It worked well for the 4 years I had it. Sold the DR because I was always having to fix the coated cable where the coating would come off and it would stop working whenever the uncoated part hit the water. Even went so far as to replace the cable after year 3 rather than patch it, but the new cable was just as bad.
coralee Posted May 3, 2015 Posted May 3, 2015 I use a breakaway cable to the ball and attach the probe to the end of the cable with a regular snap swivel. I drilled a hole in the metal on top of the probe and put a small bolt in it and attached a 6 or 8" piece of coated wire and put male end on it and on the snap (or clincher) or whatever its called I ran an extra 6 or so inched of cable out and put a female end on it so I can just pull them apart and remove the probe easily and have almost no bare wire. Works well.Hat tip to others including a marina that is on this site a lot but I can't think of their name at the moment for their input and pics.
Bad Dog Posted May 4, 2015 Posted May 4, 2015 Check out the Moor Sub-Troll Klincher Kit (part # 88-088-032) for a clean way to connect. You can modify a Klincher like the above post but the kit from Moor is simple and works well.
SUPERTRAMP Posted May 4, 2015 Posted May 4, 2015 I got tired of having cable issues and went to the Fishawk, best move ever.
Play Dough Posted May 4, 2015 Posted May 4, 2015 I use the Moor Sub-troll part for termination. Not sure what you guys do to ruin a coated cable. I've run a coated cable since about 1999, I think. I changed the cable once, just because I thought it might be a good thing to do, not because of any damage to the cable or coating. Must be the type of rigger or how it's deployed and/or re-spooled. 15 years and never had an issue.
Gnarf Posted May 15, 2015 Author Posted May 15, 2015 Okay so if the whole swivel on the klincher is costed in liquid electrical tape how does the signal get transmitted from the probe to the line?
SeaCatMich Posted May 15, 2015 Posted May 15, 2015 Okay so if the whole swivel on the klincher is costed in liquid electrical tape how does the signal get transmitted from the probe to the line?Sorry, you're right... the snap on the clincher is not fully coated with the rubber. The end where it connects to the probe is left with bare metal. Also works better with a standard steel (not stainless) snap swivel as it transmits the electrical signal better.
EdB Posted May 21, 2015 Posted May 21, 2015 Was trying to find this on the net but found it in our gallery here, could not find it on the moor site but did find a clincher kit there: This is a better pic off the Moor site:
SeaCatMich Posted May 21, 2015 Posted May 21, 2015 Good find Ed. Great illustration of what I tried to describe.
slickwater Posted June 29, 2015 Posted June 29, 2015 I'll get a photo of how my depth raider probe is set up when I get in my boat again.
slickwater Posted June 29, 2015 Posted June 29, 2015 When I had a Depth Raider I used a Klincher. The rivet that goes through the body to hold the snap swivel was replaced with a bolt (non stainless) and 2" of extra stripped coated cable wire run through the U shaped fitting and terminated on the bolt. All of the stripped wire, the bolt and the snap swivel covered in a couple of coats of liquid electrical tape with the snap open so all of it was coated too. Once dried the snap could be connected to the probe and allow for removal of the probe from the rigger. It worked well for the 4 years I had it. Sold the DR because I was always having to fix the coated cable where the coating would come off and it would stop working whenever the uncoated part hit the water. Even went so far as to replace the cable after year 3 rather than patch it, but the new cable was just as bad.How did you fix the coated cable? I don't know why mine is wearing off. I'm using big jon riggers.
SeaCatMich Posted June 29, 2015 Posted June 29, 2015 Liquid electrical tape. Need to let it dry though. I got tired of it, especially when it happened on the water with my Vectors. Went to an X4. Downside is you can't run more than one probe.
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