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Posted

You all know I just started using copper and I only have 300 feet of copper on each reel, but what do I do when I want to running shorter coppers and I still cannot get my boards to stop poppin wheelies and I've moved the weight all the way forward . Should I get 200 copper maybe 100 coppers.

Posted

what kind of boards are you running? how heavy is your copper 45lb?

If your running 45 or 60 lb copper I would use tx 44s . I run my 300 32 lb super copper with walleye boards fine but if I pull out the 450 copper I run a tx 44 for that.

The 32 lb will run almost as deep as the 45 . 10ft difference on the 300 . Hope that helps.

Posted

I have other segments of copper on other reels. I have a 100, 150, 250 then my 300. I wouldn't try running a 300 copper and only putting part of it out. I think you'll damage the copper and risk a breakoff. I have heard of people putting a section of mono to create the smaller segments. Personally I like having them on separate rods. Now if I could only remember which rod has what length on it :D

Posted

Ok I expected much more advice then what I got , I'm thinking this level of advice is totally unacceptable !!!!!! The bar is very high on this subject so let's hear what you have to say!!!

Posted

I'm a little confused.

How many copper setups do you have & what lengths are they?

How many boards are you running on a side?

How much spacing are you giving them?

What other lines are you running?

Are you tangling or just paranoid?

The entire front of the board can come out of the water. That's fine. As long as its pulls off to the side and doesn't tangle with the other lines. That's all I care about. That and occasionally a fish is caught.

Posted

If your running the smaller boards on the 300 coppers there going to wheelie a bit, but that's alright as long as they still pull out to the side a bit. If you want more pull to the side get a pair of the tx 44's, they do a great job pulling long coppers. As for copper segments I have lengths from 75 - 300. The most productive lengths for me have been the 250 and 300, but some days the shorter segments win. Shorter segments are also good to have if there are steelhead in the area.

Posted

PM sent but really need to see your setup to help you tune it. I can bring some of my gear and fish with you sometime if you want to see some different setups.

1st pic is a 300 and a 150 on the port side this evening

2nd pic is a 200 and a 115 on the starboard side this evening

post-1428-14498787936375_thumb.jpg

post-1428-14498787936752_thumb.jpg

Posted (edited)

Thank Gents I have two set ups both being 300s I think I need a pair of 200s two and run them on each side as well.

Edited by Boltman
mispell
Posted

Get a 200, and 150 and run them on the outside of the 300s. The boards will "pop weelies a bit when pulling the 300s , but thats ok.

  • Like 1
Posted

From what you have discussed about your setup it is going to be tough to get boards to run well. You need to get the board rods high up and as far forward as you can. To pull well the board needs to run right I gave up on the Church boards many years ago because I could never get them to run the way I want. I use Off Shore boards for my high lines and Steelhead program but they won't pull anything more than a full core or a 150 copper well. So my Salmon program is all Z Boards which will pull copper very well up to about a 400 for my 450 and deep stuff I use modified TX44 boards. As setups change so do my boards. Here is one thing you need to learn to read the boards and that is when it is correct it will sit nearly level in the water and the board itself will be parallel to the boat off to the side. If it is over loaded it will wallow and not keep the nose down which means it can't dig and get wide. Look at the way the boards are running in my pics that is how a board should work the entire surface is in the water pulling to the side and running well. Last night Steve sat the drag too tight on my outside board and we dragged a 5 lb Steelhead for half a hour because I was making turns and did not realize the board had pulled back until we straightened out.

Posted

Jim you are correct I can't get my boards very far outside because they are popping wheelies. I'm pulling 300 ft of copper with the tx22 and I think it's too small . When I see other boats pulling boards they are way outside ...... Mine aren't but 30 feet out from the stern to port or starboard . The nose of the board isn't eve in the water at all and the weight is full to the nose of the board . I'm getting 44s this weekend and saving these for a 150 copper setup. What do you think Jim ???

Posted

That will help are you going to fish this weekend if the weather permits we will run the MSCST tourney Sat morn and maybe you and I could get together and I could show you some things that work for me.

Posted

I'm heading North this weekend with the wife for our 10 day vacation I'll chat with you later though .

  • 3 years later...
Posted

You might want the offshore sst boards no problem people are running mag dipsey b hind them no issues


Sent from my iPhone using Great Lakes Fisherman

Posted
On 6/23/2014 at 10:47 PM, Boltman said:

I'm heading North this weekend with the wife for our 10 day vacation I'll chat with you later though .

i'll be in Pentwater tomorrow.  I'm not sure how for "up north" is, but if you're in the area, let me know how your doing.

Posted

I run 75',  100', 150', 225', 280 & 300' cooper and 2,3, 4 1/2, 5 1/2, 8 & 10 color lead off shore regular boards. 

It's nice to have rod trees to keep lines up higher.

You can get poor man 3 rod rod trees from Maddocks, Harrison, Mi for like $150 each! 

My 2 cents worth.

All have a great 4th!

  • Like 1
Posted

The 200 Pb is a super duper STUD on my boat.  I've checked it with a fish hawk TD, and find that it runs true at 40 ft deep @ 2.7 MPH.  A well known "trick" I use that is long been forgotten is to put a short 20 ft section of lead core on the end of the Cu followed by a short section of 20 lb floro leader. This allows spoons to kinda sway around with the boat movement and gives the spoons a LOT mor animation and life.  My favorite set up is a 200 Pb with a John King Lexan Gold Orange Crush spoon. This set up gets hit by Steelies, Coho, Chinooks, and Lakers.

You got lots of great advice herein from some truly outstanding fisherman. Keep it all simple and all will be as it should be with tight lines.

The Greek

Posted

I run 75',  100', 150', 225', 280 & 300' cooper and 2,3, 4 1/2, 5 1/2, 8 & 10 color lead off shore regular boards. 

It's nice to have rod trees to keep lines up higher.

You can get poor man 3 rod rod trees from Maddocks, Harrison, Mi for like $150 each! 

My 2 cents worth.

All have a great 4th!

Posted

DAN:  YES!!! I put a short section (5 to 10 Meters) of Pb on end of my Cu's as a way of allowing the lures to move around more as the boat bounces and sways.  Cu is super stiff and the leader alone is not enough to allow the lure to move around. It's like SWR for Cu. Try it! You'll be amazed how much better your Cu's work.  Your floro leader length must be short (max of 3 M) for best results. Laugh if you want........my strike rate on Cu went waaaaaay up since I started using the Pb sections on the end of the Cu. 

 

  • Like 1
Posted
On ‎7‎/‎3‎/‎2017 at 6:21 PM, Tyeeplease said:

I'm curious as to what reel I need for 300 copper,Okuma  cold water 430DS ?

I used this reel a few days ago for the first time to deploy a 150 ft Cu. I found it it smooth, easy to set, and the drag/brake system held well against a variable troll speed. The level wind pickup is very wide and will accommodate Cu knots and swivels. Don't know how it holds up over time. Good luck with your decision.

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