Anyone with kicker on an aluminum cuddy?

[rbradley]

still struggling to make a decision on adding a kicker to my GLS 220 (basically same as 22' islander) it's 24 years old now and starting to get concerned about the main pooping out on me while out on the water (although it seems to be running great)

I'm pretty short and I'm not sure I could reach a tiller controlled motor on an adjustable mount when it's in the down position, just looking for 1st hand experience if there's any out there.

[SeaCatMich]

I would get a EZ-Steer style connecting rod to let you steer with the main boat steering. Then add a Control King or TrollMaster remote throttle control to the kicker. They are available with kits to adapt to most kicker size outboards out there. This gives you very fine speed control without needing a full throttle handle at the helm plus the ease of true steering. On your size boat I would agree that a tiller handle isn't going to work very well. A Garmin TR1 for the kicker is another option but a lot more expensive.

[danthebuilder]

They make cheap tiller extension handles but its not fun to stand at the back of the boat and steer from there. EZ-steer is what you want if you get a kicker.

[rbradley]

I planned on an ez steer but was more concerned about starting, shifting, and lifting the kicker.

[gmfishon]

I planned on an ez steer but was more concerned about starting, shifting, and lifting the kicker.

i am in the same boat-pun intended:no: i think i am going to have to use the kicker only in case of main failure. i have an older (heavy) 9.9 merc and a spring loaded adjustable bracket. i cant afford one of the speed control things or an autopilot right now. my plan is to have the kicker on the bracket, all tuned up and with its own fuel source. i may not get the ezsteer right away. i would start the kicker before each trip and hope i dont need it. worse case if i had to drive it from back there to get in. just getting a couple days that may be nice enough to start work on the boat so i will see how it all plays out, but for now i have the same concerns so will post if i can offer any advice.

[IRon]

I have a '95 Crestliner Eagle aluminum cuddy. I was able to find a used 9.9 kicker with electric start. I have a boat salvage yard about an hour away and was able to get most of what I needed, there. Was able to get a used throttle control and had room to cut a hole and mount it next to my main motor control. They make dual controls but are pricey for new. What they didn't have they could order, so I got the shift cable from them, too. Drilled another hole and mounted the key switch and ran wires to it. A bit of a challenge but with proper planning, not too bad and the inexpensive way to go.

It's a bit of a stretch but lifting manually is possible with mine. Power trim would be ideal, but not in the budget. I suppose used is possible.

Mine is pretty much old school functional.

[SeaCatMich]

Most of the kicker brackets that can be lifted have spring loaded lifts to help get them up/down easier. Pull starting could be a pain once the motor is in the down/running position but one with electric start would help. I would also look at a long shaft OB. With the long shaft you might even get away with a fixed mount bracket which would lift the motor out of the water when the boat is on plane but have it low enough to troll with off plane. Since around 2003 many of the outboards have moved the F-N-R controls to the front of the motor near the tiller handle. I would shop for a setup (new or used) that fits your needs.