rbradley Posted April 8, 2014 Posted April 8, 2014 Boat needs new battery's, 7 years old now. It runs twin dual purpose size 24 now, questions for the experts.Is it worth paying a little extra for deep cycle.Do you isolate your sonar from the main battery?Do you run 1 starting and 1 dual or just 2 duals?Thanks
N II Deep Posted April 9, 2014 Posted April 9, 2014 Both of my batteries are NAPA Marine Deep cycle. I have 4 years on one, 6 on the other. both are still holding a charge very well, but I expect to replace both at some point this season.currently I don't have the graph / electronic separated from the starting battery, but I think I will do so when I change the batteries.I usually run just 1 battery, normal trolling. if I have a full boat and the fridge is going to be running for the guest, I will switch it to dual mode.
BenLubbs Posted April 9, 2014 Posted April 9, 2014 if I have a full boat and the fridge is going to be running for the guest, I will switch it to dual mode. Sounds like you have a certain guest in mind Jon
coralee Posted April 9, 2014 Posted April 9, 2014 Here is a link to what looks like a good deal on batteries that my son sent to me.http://slickdeals.net/f/6834850-sears-25-off-all-diehard-marine-batteries-additional-5-off-free-in-store-pickup
silver one Posted April 9, 2014 Posted April 9, 2014 There are alot of good batteries out there and if taken care of right they should all last atleast 7 years. But look at it from this way. I went with Optima when I re-did the old silver one (221 islander). The first reason was that they are a sealed batterie. they are not gell filled as some think. They are spiral cell led acid batteries. boats tend to rock and roll and non sealed batteries have a vent most of the time, and on hot days when you are working your batteries you can(not always) get some leakeage from these batteries causing some batterie acid to get on and around some things. Putting them in batteries boxes helps but still a mess to clean. The optimas also have a diod in them that is currentl limiting. meaning you can't run them completly dead and you cant over charge them. I ran them for almost 10 years on the old silver one relplaced them and still have the old ones I still use for tractors and whatever. As far as electronics they should always have their own circut right from the batterie. this will eliminate static,harmonic and frequency noise causing interference on radios and gps's. I would also reccomend a switch and yes I alternate when starting and running. When I run at the end of the day I will put the switch on both and run in and then alternate primary batteries each trip. It really depends on what kind of load you have on them. Hope this helps.
prop nut Posted April 9, 2014 Posted April 9, 2014 Best not to use a deep cycle battery as a starting battery if you have a new modern outboard with a high output alternator Most deep .cycles designed to be charged at a slower rate than a starting battery Best of f both worlds these days is a battery management system ormsmart switch with a house battery and dedicated engine battery this system keeps the staring battery fully charged and automatically switches battery charge as needed but always prioritizes the starting batter to get you home
nickoftime Posted April 9, 2014 Posted April 9, 2014 I run two batteries no deep cycle with isolator and battery switch. Battery one is my engine battery and downriggers because downriggers have the most draw and battery two is for all every thing else.
silver one Posted April 9, 2014 Posted April 9, 2014 I run two batteries no deep cycle with isolator and battery switch. Battery one is my engine battery and downriggers because downriggers have the most draw and battery two is for all every thing else. No deep cycle batteries for me either.
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