Richland angler Posted January 27, 2014 Posted January 27, 2014 I am an old time Lake Michigan fisherman (thanks to my Dad). I'm getting back into G.L. fishing. Times have changed (well, OK, a while back, but I was out of the loop)! All I knew was (know is?) down-riggers and weighted "high-lines". Now there is this lead core. OK, I'm all ears, but here's my question; if you use an in-line planer board (such that you have to reel it in to release it and remove it before you bring in the fish), can you attach the lead core to the planer board (allowing you to put out as many colors as you see fit) or must you get to the mono / braided backer line to connect to the board? (Same question put another way, if you attach lead core to the board do you trash the line?)I'd really like some advice on this, thank you!!
JWheeler Posted January 27, 2014 Posted January 27, 2014 I do not do it that way. I attach the planet board to backing. Clipping directly to the lead core will cause it to weaken and ultimately break your lead core.
Killin' It Posted January 28, 2014 Posted January 28, 2014 Welcome to the site...What area are you in?Running core/Copper is as easy or as difficult as you want to make it.Jwheeler is correct. Doing this will weaken the leadcore/copper. If you are worried about having to many rods or needing to many rods, you can always use shorter core with dive bombs.Dave
Nailer Posted January 28, 2014 Posted January 28, 2014 Welcome aboardSome guys will load a reel with a full core, and put short segments of Mono at different intervals to attach the board to. It's not a good idea to attach a board to core.I use a standard Albright knot when tying core to mono.
JWheeler Posted January 28, 2014 Posted January 28, 2014 Welcome aboardSome guys will load a reel with a full core, and put short segments of Mono at different intervals to attach the board to. It's not a good idea to attach a board to core. I use a standard Albright knot when tying core to mono. I'm not sure the name of the knot that I use for lead core, I take some lead out of the sheath, then make a simple over hand knot and leave it loose. I then feed the backer or leader into the sheath of the lead core and then cinch it tight. This knot has been very good for me.
King Slammin' Posted January 28, 2014 Posted January 28, 2014 This knot has been very good for me. "Willis" Knot.
Boog Posted January 28, 2014 Posted January 28, 2014 The Willis Knot works well with some lead core lines and not so well with others.Especially the new thinner, so called "Advanced" lead core lines. Good luck tying a Willis knot with those. It's basically impossible!When possible, I also use and love the Willis knot. When its not possible, I have also used the Albright knot. Both have worked very well for me.When tying the Albright knot, which works especially well when joining lines of different diameters or materials, always wrap the thinner line over the thicker line.
Dr Hook Posted January 28, 2014 Posted January 28, 2014 The Willis Knot works well with some lead core lines and not so well with others.Especially the new thinner, so called "Advanced" lead core lines. Good luck tying a Willis knot with those. It's basically impossible!When possible, I also use and love the Willis knot. When its not possible, I have also used the Albright knot. Both have worked very well for me.When tying the Albright knot, which works especially well when joining lines of different diameters or materials, always wrap the thinner line over the thicker line.Anybody have any luck with the thinner lead core? I went to it last year and my core was pretty much dead all summer.
Boog Posted January 28, 2014 Posted January 28, 2014 I've only run it for walleye fishing. Worked great there although it wasn't near as durable as the regular lead core.I'll probably put it on a rod or two this summer for salmon fishing.
Nailer Posted January 29, 2014 Posted January 29, 2014 My eyes can't see good enough any more to tie a Willis Knot!
Richland angler Posted January 29, 2014 Author Posted January 29, 2014 Thanks all for the welcome. I used to fish out of Muskegon but now I will be trailering the boat to the lake. Nearest port is South Haven. Nice amenities but I haven't had much luck catching fish there I like the idea of having short sections of mono between a few colors. Until I have to tie all those knots, I suppose. But I don't have the budget luxury of multiple rigs.
JWheeler Posted January 30, 2014 Posted January 30, 2014 I like the idea of having short sections of mono between a few colors. Until I have to tie all those knots, I suppose. But I don't have the budget luxury of multiple rigs.I'm in the same boat, the added expense and room for storage on the boat is a draw back to having too many rigs. Something I have done, I have bought extra reels that I find for very good prices. Word of mouth, garage sales, classifieds on the forum. I buy them and then spool them with whatever LC or copper that I want. Then, I stow the reels on the boat, and if what I am using is not working I just swap out reels on the pole already being used.
AllenW Posted January 30, 2014 Posted January 30, 2014 I run both the older Suffix leadcore and the newer advanced 832 in 18# and the newer stuff seems to run deeper, not much but maybe a foot per section, I'm guessing. If you can do a Willis knot on the new stuff your a better man than I. I could not get the 12# big game mono to slide into the leadcore. The Albright seems to work on both for me, so that's what I use. I run a length of backing mono, then 5 or 6 colors, then a leader of mono. To save number of different depth set ups, I'll add a snap weight to the leader just after the leadcore to get a bit deeper. I also do not hook the planer board up to the leadcore and use the backing for that. Al
Boog Posted January 30, 2014 Posted January 30, 2014 At 2mph, Sufix Advanced Lead Core runs 7' deep for every color out.The old stuff runs 5' deep at 2mph per color deployed.Thats a general rule not exact.
SUPERTRAMP Posted January 30, 2014 Posted January 30, 2014 Like most of the other guys. Board goes on the backer, I usually use braid power pro 30for my backer, splice an 8' piece of 40# mono in to attach the board to, I do use al lot of short cores in the spring. 1 color(SWR) 2 color(SWR), 4 color 6 color 10 color. All have different presentations. I like Walleye Boards, biggest problem is getting people to keep their rod tip low, and bring the board to the boat with rod tip low, remove board, and then fight your fish. Willis knot to splice the Leadcore to the backer. Works well when u use the mono spacer. You can try using an Albright knot, if you want to use all braid backer. Once you get to summer fishing, you will want to try copper rigs. They account for a lot of fish in July and August.
mattmishler Posted January 30, 2014 Posted January 30, 2014 I have done with when were fishing the mud up close. Have a 3 color only put 2 out and leave the rest out of the water. Dacron is strong stuff and the vise clip don't put a ton of pressure, crimping the lead is not a big deal.
joelsanders Posted January 30, 2014 Posted January 30, 2014 Test you're patience ,try a Willis not with super braid!
SUPERTRAMP Posted January 30, 2014 Posted January 30, 2014 Test you're patience ,try a Willis not with super braid!It can be done with a long needle, but I prefer to splice in about 8' of 40# mono and use that to attach boards to. easy to tie the Willis Knot then.
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