Setting boards to release

[NBK]

I've been using church walleye boards for copper and I have them set to release. They release just fine and slide down the line, but when the board gets to the swivel at the copper and stops, it sinks when the fish takes drag. I've tried pointing the rod down at the board. I've also tried half hitching a rubber band to the line where the board is clipped and then putting the band in the back pin so it can't slide down to the copper, but it still went under.

Any tips from you guys who set your boards to release? I know the norm is to have them not release. Thanks in advance.

[Ace HI]

For me my boards are setup to release with a OR 16 at the back to hold it but I run Off Shore boards. The Church boards I have played with never worked for me when mine release they flip all the way over and try to float up so your not fighting the board at all.

[Line Dancin]

For me my boards are setup to release with a OR 16 at the back to hold it but I run Off Shore boards. The Church boards I have played with never worked for me when mine release they flip all the way over and try to float up so your not fighting the board at all.

I do the same thing.

[Just Hook'n]

I don't set my boards to releast, but back before I changed my clips they would from time to time.

I don't know if this will help, but we used to tie a ball swivel and a green bead 3 feet above the lures just in case the board released.

This way the board would not hit the fish off the lure.

Not sure if this would help with the diving or not, but it's worth a try.

[seahawk]

We do not allow our boards to release We do this by wrapping the line around the release 2-3 times and we just reel them in and unclip them when we have a fish on. That way still have all your lead core or copper to play the fish on and it is rare we loose one once the board if uncliped. We don't have to worry about beads on the line.

[SUPERTRAMP]

If u want the board to release, u need to attach a speed bead about 4 to 5 ft above the swivel, it will keep the board from hitting the swivel and diving or knocking a fish off. The better way is to set them tight so they dont release, set the drags on your real loose with the clicker on, when the fish strikes, tighten the drag point the rod tip at the board and reel the board to the boat, if u keep the rod tip down the board will not dive. U only lift the rod tip when u r close enough to lift the board out of the water, then remove the board and fight your fish on a loosened drag. We never have a board dive on us when we do it right.

[joelsanders]

I dont like them to release.mainly because i have let out a 10 color lead core and have had the board release as i set it, and have to reel that sucker all the way in and start over.OH NO!!

[scuba]

i do the same as seahawk and have no problems!!!!

[Line Dancin]

I dont like them to release.mainly because i have let out a 10 color lead core and have had the board release as i set it, and have to reel that sucker all the way in and start over.OH NO!!

If you use an or 16 at the back of the board it will not slide down. I put a small screw eye into the board to atach it to. the front is set to release. that board will not move unless you unclip it and move it. So if you are letting out a ten color and it release off the front release you just reel it in to where the board was set as the 0r16 holds it in the same place not sliding down 10 colors. reset the front release and let it back out. One a fish hit and it releases you are fighting just the fish not the board being pulled around by a fish.

[NBK]

Aaron, are you using church or offshore boards? Could you post or pm me a pic of how you set it up when you get a chance?

[Line Dancin]

I have churches and offshores i set them all the same way. They are on the boat over on erie i am headed over this weekend and i can take a couple pics and post them. The or16 if you are not familiar with them have a pin in them that wont alow themto comeoff the line unless you open the release enough. You just have to make sure the line gets behind the pin.

[Line Dancin]

I had a set new in the package that needed setting up so i set them up and took some pics. the front release i use is the big jon barrell release both available at gander mountains they hold a 300 copper just fine in rough water and only release when a fish hits. the back is the or 16 http://www.offshoretackle.com/OR16.html

I have two sets of tx 44s that will be set up the same way and will be tried when i get the boat back on this side of the state.

pics:

[Paulywood]

I use the OR-16 in the back but use an OR-18 in the front set so they don't release. Mine are all on Church Walleye boards but I have a couple of TX-44's to set up.

[NBK]

Thanks a lot Aaron, that's exactly what I was looking for.

[mriversinco]

Just like Aaron, I have the same releases but I do have trouble with the big jon releases working right. Sometimes they release with nothing on so I jam them in farther and then they won't release on a fish. Kind of a pain to get them right....

[Line Dancin]

You do have to get the "feel" for those releases. I uses a piece of 30' of 30 or 40lb mono between my braid and board (40 lb the last 2 years). This does a few things for me. It shows wear that braid doesn't so i can retye before having a break off. It doesn't allow the board to slip down the line. It is a little thicker and works better with the barrell releases. 20 and 25 lb i had a hard time getting it to hold in the release so then i would jam it in and then it wouldnt release with the 30 and 40 lb that issue seems to have gone away for me. or again maybe i just have the feel for setting it now.