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Posted

What lbs test do you guys use I was about to order 32lbs from blood run but there website says it for fishing down to 40'. But the dive curves for 45 starts at 90' I was wanting to get from 40-70' with my coppers. so i would asume I need 150,200,250,300,and 350 of 32lbs. or should I be mixing them up with 45 and 32lbs.

Thanks Steve

Posted

I agree with Don, 32 pound seems much easier to work with.

I have 350 300 250 200 and then run 5 color and 3 color over top of that and it covers from 15 all the way to 70 feet down..

Buy a couple Dive bombs and you can reach 100 feet down. Anything past that and this guy does not need to fish them.

Posted

I agree the 32lb is much more user friendly. I am switching most of my lead cores over to 32lb copper segments.

I do still love running 45lb copper for fishing deeper, 300+ segments. Hook a lot of big kings later in the day

Posted

I am running 32lb in 100,150,200,250,300. I use lead for 5-20 foot down and then the 100 copper starts the 25 and deeper segments. I have been really happy with my 32 lb blood run. I am going to add some 45lb rigs for the 75-95 foot range.

Posted

Yup I think if you're mostly fishing for fun then get the 32. If you're fishing for competition then get the 45. I got the 32 :)

Posted

Braid. You get more line on you reel because the diameter is much smaller for the same lb test. Copper is very thick line so room on the reel is usually at a premium

30lb power pro has the same diameter as 8lb mono

50lb = 12 lb mono

Posted

mono for me. I just like it better and prefer to have the stretch in the line. 400ft of 45lb Blood Run with 30lb mono backing on a 55 convector and never even slightly concerned about running out of backing.

Posted

Steve We use the 32# for everything up to 300', then go to the 45# for deeper late summer kings. The 32# sinks at a rate on aprox, Length X 0.2. So that 300' 32# will go about 60' down. (300 X 0.2= 60') Speed, current, and what you are pulling play into that, but it's a good starting point. Blood Run also picked up a line of Braid, and has it reasonable priced right now (it is not made in china ether).

Posted

Always a lot of talk how easier it is to run 30# copper. I'm sure it is but in my opinion don't let the 45# scare you. It's really not hard to handle, even for someone new to copper.

I picked up a bulk spool of 45# blood run last year and we back it with 30# mono on 55 convectors. It was my first time running copper and besides a a few kinks (fixed with a spro swivel, right on the water) I had no problems learning and running the stuff.

Posted
Always a lot of talk how easier it is to run 30# copper. I'm sure it is but in my opinion don't let the 45# scare you. It's really not hard to handle, even for someone new to copper.

I picked up a bulk spool of 45# blood run last year and we back it with 30# mono on 55 convectors. It was my first time running copper and besides a a few kinks (fixed with a spro swivel, right on the water) I had no problems learning and running the stuff.

Good point J.

A hay wire twist also works great to repair/splice copper.

IMG_9943.jpg

IMG_9944.jpg

Posted
this year our 300 and 450's were on fire!

45# 275CU with a meat rig was difficult to keep in the water

Posted
All I use is haywire twists, never an issue at all. My 350 is actually 325 with 25 feet sliced in with haywire twists.

My 300' has at least 3 splices in it. Hasn't let loose yet.

Posted

I had many problems with the Haywire twist this year. Fraying at the end and not going through the eyelets or the reel when fighting a fish! changed everything to a spros swivel and no problems. Would never haywire anything again!

Posted
I had many problems with the Haywire twist this year. Fraying at the end and not going through the eyelets or the reel when fighting a fish! changed everything to a spros swivel and no problems. Would never haywire anything again!

I also use spro swivels at all my copper to leader/backing connection......using a haywire twist. How do you connect your copper to your spros?

Posted

we put it through the swivel, put 6 twist on it. Then the same to the backer, then cover with shrink tube. The haywire holds fine, but the ends tend to fray, the shrink tube gets rid of that

Posted
we put it through the swivel, put 6 twist on it. Then the same to the backer, then cover with shrink tube. The haywire holds fine, but the ends tend to fray, the shrink tube gets rid of that

A haywire like I posted with a shrink tube would work than?

Posted
we put it through the swivel, put 6 twist on it. Then the same to the backer, then cover with shrink tube. The haywire holds fine, but the ends tend to fray, the shrink tube gets rid of that

got ya! I have never done the shrink tubing over the twist. honestly, i just prefer keeping things simple especially for on the water fixes. I find if you do your haywire twist in the right direction you can actually unwind it and it blends in with the piece you are going over. keeps it nice and flat with a clean finish. not as fail safe as shrink tubing but tends to keep the twist from bunching up.

Posted

I was running howie last year, picked up a 1000' spool of the 45# Bloodrun this year, and as bloodrun claims, it is a lot smoother making it more user friendly. I was very happy with the ease of use. Can't wait to break it out next year.

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