tying copper

[wingnut]

Just got my copper wire from blood run today and can't find the video of one of the captains tying the copper to a spro heavy duty swivel. It seems to make the connection stronger if the line is looped through the eye twice on some knots and was wondering if It would be better to loop the wire through the swivel twice then do the haywire twist. Also does anyone know what size shrink tube works on 32# with the haywire twist.

Another question is which knot would be best for tying 30# mono to 30# stainless wire, would an Improved Albright work with the stainless? I have two Tekota 500's that I thought I would split the thousand feet on after putting on the mono backer.

[Justtrollin]

Well first, not sure why you tie your copper to a swivel. Just tie it directly to the mono backing then add your leader of about 30ft. I think the knot I use a allbright. No messing around with shrink tube and I have never had one come apart.

As for the wire if it is a wire dipsy I tie directly to the swivel, loop it thru with a overhand knot, There are some pics on the site that show you how to.

Hope this helps.

[j1musser]

I also use the albright and works great for me.

Here is the sweet and easy way to do wire via some previous posts on here.

http://www.lotsa.org/Wire%20Line%20Knot.htm

[wild at heart]

copper to spro is the way to go. I've never wraped it twice and I dont use skrink wrap, if it starts to fray a little you can re=twist with your fingers. We always put all 1000' of wire on reel with no backing, a little more cost but much better. Wire lasts a long time and we just cut back as need. Wire can cause trouble winding on to mono.

[Adam Bomb]

Here is the recommended method for blood run copper.

http://www.coppertrollingwire.com/copper-fishing-wire-line-knots-albright/

By far, the best knot for a backer-to-copper or copper-to-leader is the Blood Run Twist. This is the ONLY knot we recommend for successfully using our copper. The Blood Run Twist is essentially an Albright Knot started off with a tight twist of the copper tag onto itself, depicted below. It is important to remember that copper is a “soft metal”. Twisted soft metal can separate strands when the line is bent, such as the start of a traditional Albright knot. By “twisting” prior to the Albright, the strands are twisted together to provide a solid tight section of copper just behind the copper knot. ***You can click on the images below to zoom in for a close up view***

[Habeeb]

copper to spro is the way to go.

Iv'e been hearing this lately. What size swivel seems to be the consensus?

I assume you put the copper through the swivel and twist it around itself a few times? Or am I way off here?

[DIRTY DOG]

Iv'e been hearing this lately. What size swivel seems to be the consensus?

I assume you put the copper through the swivel and twist it around itself a few times? Or am I way off here?

You are correct, very easy and both the albright and swivle method work very well.

[southtrollsouth]

Iv'e been hearing this lately. What size swivel seems to be the consensus?

I assume you put the copper through the swivel and twist it around itself a few times? Or am I way off here?

Copper to swivels can and does work. Loop through the swivel twice, then haywire twist the remaining piece back up the main copper line. Shrink wrap over the area after the swivel (over your haywire twists) helps ensure that the strands of copper do not separate. Whenever you loop or bend stranded wire of any kind, it releases the pressure on the natural twist. Best to retwist tight after you tie the knot and keep an eye on the area, unless shrinkwrapped which will keep the twist tight.

[killerbe20]

i use a regular #10 spro swivel, not the power swivel

[wingnut]

I thought with the copper tied to the swivel (#3 Spro heavy duty)It would be easier to change lengths of copper for different depths and for retying from the planer board release wear on the mono backer. I'm starting out with two copper rigs this year (my first) and if I'm marking fish at 40' and I'm set up with 300' of copper fishing at 60', my plan is to take the 300' section off and put a 200' section on. I read an article in the woods and water news on fishing with copper and one method of tying the copper to mono used shrink wrap to lock down the haywire twist. The theory with the shrink wrap is that if the wire cannot start to unwravel it will stay wrapped tight.My plan is to have swivels tied on pre cut lengths so changing out would be easy. If the fishing with copper is productive for me I'm sure next year I'll have more copper rigs. There was a charter captain that made video's of different tips and tricks but I think I saw it on an older post and can't find it again.

I thought I would cut cost on the stainless and split a 1000' spool between the two reels.That's why I would need to tie the stainless to mono backer, I think the blood run site recommends using mono as a backer for stainless wire. The half hitch with an overhand knot is what I'm planing on using for the swivel thats connected to the diver.

[Nailer]

I thought with the copper tied to the swivel (#3 Spro heavy duty)It would be easier to change lengths of copper for different depths and for retying from the planer board release wear on the mono backer. I'm starting out with two copper rigs this year (my first) and if I'm marking fish at 40' and I'm set up with 300' of copper fishing at 60', my plan is to take the 300' section off and put a 200' section on. I read an article in the woods and water news on fishing with copper and one method of tying the copper to mono used shrink wrap to lock down the haywire twist. The theory with the shrink wrap is that if the wire cannot start to unwravel it will stay wrapped tight.My plan is to have swivels tied on pre cut lengths so changing out would be easy. If the fishing with copper is productive for me I'm sure next year I'll have more copper rigs. There was a charter captain that made video's of different tips and tricks but I think I saw it on an older post and can't find it again.

I thought I would cut cost on the stainless and split a 1000' spool between the two reels.That's why I would need to tie the stainless to mono backer, I think the blood run site recommends using mono as a backer for stainless wire. The half hitch with an overhand knot is what I'm planing on using for the swivel thats connected to the diver.

You pretty much have it there.

Add a bead before tying the wire knot. Then reel the line tight to the bead for storage or when landing a fish.

The copper knot should look like this when done. (unless you shrink wrap it)

Wire knot.

[wingnut]

Thanks for posting the pics, nice up close shots. I'll use them for a reference.

[Adam Bomb]

I like to put a short section of surgical tube between the beed and the rod tip on the wire as well. That acts like a shock and keeps the line really taunt when you reel i to the tip.

[wingnut]

That sounds like a good Idea with the surgical tube, I'm new to fishing with wire but I take it the wire will probably want to uncoil if not kept taut. Would a 4" length aquarium hose work.

Edited April 7, 2011 by wingnut
spelling

[Adam Bomb]

You definitely want to keep tension on wire at all times otherwise itll wann coil up on ya and that leads to kinking. Also, if and when you spool up, be certain that you spool it up as tightly as you can. You dont want wire spooled loosely as the wire on the very top of the spool leading to your lure will cut down into the wire on the spool and get stuck if its not spooled tightly. I like to take a small mini disk or a drop weight and hook it on and let the wire out and then reel it in when i do my initial set up.

In reguard to the tube, id just use about an inch.

[ChampionShip]

i use a regular #10 spro swivel, not the power swivel

I've used both and like the regular swivel better due to its smaller size. I use the smallest shrink wrap I can find (can't recall size 3/32" I believe). It's important to tie the mono splice on AFTER letting the shrink wrapped copper cool down. Improved clinch knot ties mono to the swivel. I have had copper snap during a stress test before my knot or the mono does.

Had TONS of problems with ablright knots over a few years of fishing copper and it didn't seem to matter who was tying it or how much we kept an eye on it, it still frayed and caught guides causing backlash and would on occasion just plain break off......one lost section of copper was all it took to make me switch. This setup I run now is flawless and very easy to deploy.