Core Setup Help

[Jose]

Alright guys, I need some help. Been thinking more about our setup for the upcoming year. We usually run 2 rigger, 2 dipseys and 2 core. We need serious help with our core setups because we have a 2 color and an 8 color. Thinking about purchasing another setup for a full core. Problem last year was we got some brother sized z boards for our core and it seems the board cant even handle the 8 color with the releases that come with it. Just pops right off after it gets set or will not release at all. Also doesnt track real well with the 8 color on it. Ive tried to sort out what i need to do to change the releases but I just dont get it. Id still like the board to release when a fish hits since Im not really good at reading the board when there is a fish on. What releases do I need? Do you have a link to it?

Possibly getting another set of planers this year for spring fishing flat lines, any suggestions??

Thanks dudes!

Andrew

[its an addiction]

I'd say if your fishing Salmon you don't need to worry about a release as it's easy to tell when a fish is on. Drag screams or it doesn't. Walleye, different story.

[Jose]

Should I be setting the drag just tight enough not to creep out at on the boards? What kind of rod/reel setups do you guys run for your full cores?

[Nailer]

Should I be setting the drag just tight enough not to creep out at on the boards? What kind of rod/reel setups do you guys run for your full cores?

Yes on the drag question.

A 7' rod is nice for removing the board, but any rigger rod will work.

Okuma 55 series reel, Penn 330 gti, Diawa 57 series.

Consider using 32# Blood Run copper. It's about the same diameter, but you only need 200' to get what it takes 300' of core to go down.

Then you could get by with a Okuma 45 series, Penn 320 gti.

I had the same issue with the Z board I had till it came lose, and went by by.

Offshore or Church boards are the norm for most.

[Jose]

If I get the copper line do I need a specialized rod with roller guides? Trying to do this on a budget. Most likely will get an okuma reel since that what we have on all our other rods and have served us well.

Maybe Ill pickup a set of offshores. Will i need to get releases with the offshores? or are they rigged?

[wild at heart]

go with the church walley boards, ready to go out of the package and alittle cheaper. Copper is the way to go, you dont need any special rod because its soft, but having bigger eyelets is a plus. The church board will drag 300 ft of copper easy. You set your drag just tight enough to not leak with clicker on and you will here 90% of your hook ups. Set board not to trip, reel it in and pop it off. Keep your rod tip pointed at the board till its close enought to lift. Deploy copper with clicker on and thumb on spool.

[mriversinco]

I'm going to go a little against the grain here. I don't use copper yet because I just started last year for this big lake stuff and have heard that copper can be a real PIA for beginners. I also bought the zboards too and have been disappointed in how they run (or lake thereof). I'm going to give it this spring to figure them out though. Seems that they need to be adjusted alot before they run well. When pulling heavy weights, bend the arm up so it's about even with the top of the board. Be sure you only bend the part of the arm that's supposed to be bent. Put a piece of wood with a cut in it against the board so the arm doesn't bend at the board. 1Maniac gave me those tips on here, so if you search his postings, you'll find them.

As to drags, yes set them so they barely hold. That way when you hear the clicks you'll know. Just FYI, it's much easier to read the boards when there's 3 of them on a side so you have a reference. That's what the big boats do, but you probably can't so adjust your drags.

Hope this helps

[SUPERTRAMP]

I run Okuma CV45's for my full cores, plenty of room for backer, I use Walleye boards and move the weights to get them to run correctly. I have 2 full cores 2 color 5 color and 7 color rigs for the cores, for deeper I prefer 300' of 45# copper which I also run off the walleye boards. U can run anything off the boards but the 450 copper and that I got Z boards for but only 2 I already had 12 walleye boards. So being scotch and English I am cheap and make do. The copper I use CV55's and 8' rods the Okuma dipsey rods work well.

[Just in time]

Last year the water was warm here in Montague and short cores didnt work well for me. 15 and 18 colors worked best. 300 and 450 coppers were equally as productive. I have a set of Z Boards and can get them to run good then they need tuned again next trip. The walleye boards are much better in my oppinion. Adjust the weight forward to one for heavier lines. If you buy copper and are a beginner get the coated copper it is more forgiving. The 45 lb copper sinks further. Not enough differance between 30lb copper sink depths to lead core to justify higher cost.

[SUPERTRAMP]

I'm going to go a little against the grain here. I don't use copper yet because I just started last year for this big lake stuff and have heard that copper can be a real PIA for beginners. I also bought the zboards too and have been disappointed in how they run (or lake thereof). I'm going to give it this spring to figure them out though. Seems that they need to be adjusted alot before they run well. When pulling heavy weights, bend the arm up so it's about even with the top of the board. Be sure you only bend the part of the arm that's supposed to be bent. Put a piece of wood with a cut in it against the board so the arm doesn't bend at the board. 1Maniac gave me those tips on here, so if you search his postings, you'll find them.

As to drags, yes set them so they barely hold. That way when you hear the clicks you'll know. Just FYI, it's much easier to read the boards when there's 3 of them on a side so you have a reference. That's what the big boats do, but you probably can't so adjust your drags.

Hope this helps

I started using copper 2 years ago and have found it to be more productive in late june thru the end of the season than Lead core. It is no more trouble than lead core and u can run less length to get the depth. 300' of copper will get down 80 to 90 ' depending on speed, a 27# full core wont get past 50. Copper works period and I would not start the season without at least a couple of 300 footers and I added a 450.

[Nailer]

I'm going to go a little against the grain here. I don't use copper yet because I just started last year for this big lake stuff and have heard that copper can be a real PIA for beginners.

That's why I will always recommend the 32# blood Run. It deploys as easy as core, and sink at a 3/2 ratio of core.

[Adam Bomb]

I agree. Id consider going to copper as well once you start getting out that far. Sink rates and less line out are precisely the reason why. I just got some of the 32# Blood Run Copper and i can tell you its MUCH more supple than other coppers ive used.

[Yoda]

I'll second or third the Church walleye boards, we run a full core on them with no problem

[eastcoasttransplant]

Without getting into the core vs copper debate....I would simply pick up Church Walleye Boards to run your LC. If you get copper down the line they will still work fine

[fishsniffer]

I agree. Id consider going to copper as well once you start getting out that far. Sink rates and less line out are precisely the reason why. I just got some of the 32# Blood Run Copper and i can tell you its MUCH more supple than other coppers ive used.

same thing here

[Jose]

Well sounds like I may go with the church boards then. It really suprised me because seems I remember everyone like the offshores over the churches. but I will believe you guys that I can run a fulll core on it. I take it if I run clean lures behind those boards this spring im going to have to move the weight in the opposite direction?

Thanks for all the imput guys! Cant wait to get out fishing!

[Sea-Mac]

Well sounds like I may go with the church boards then. It really suprised me because seems I remember everyone like the offshores over the churches. but I will believe you guys that I can run a fulll core on it. I take it if I run clean lures behind those boards this spring im going to have to move the weight in the opposite direction?

Thanks for all the imput guys! Cant wait to get out fishing!

I like the Offshores over the Churches...(Line Dancin made me say that )

You might have to move the weight, but when you have a lighter presentation like a clean spoon I dont think it matters much. It should still track good enough no matter where the weight is.

[Jose]

I like the Offshores over the Churches...(Line Dancin made me say that )

You might have to move the weight, but when you have a lighter presentation like a clean spoon I dont think it matters much. It should still track good enough no matter where the weight is.

Did you buy new releases for your offshores?

[Sea-Mac]

Yep..I swap out the back one for a red or-16 (it has a pin in the middle of it to keep it from coming off the line, just make sure you clip the line past that pin) and keep the front one the orange clip. Your boards will release this way under heavy tension but not slide down the line. I like mine to release, some dont.

[Jose]

hmm, well I would also like my board to release. Do the churches release? With the z boards I already have I could scavange the or-16 off of it, since im not crazy about them...

[Sea-Mac]

hmm, well I would also like my board to release. Do the churches release? With the z boards I already have I could scavange the or-16 off of it, since im not crazy about them...

Yep you can also set a Church board to release, and yep the rear clip off your z-board will work fine.

I have no idea what they are called or really how to explain them good...but i used a metal screw type deal that has a enclosed circle on the opposite end of the screw. They are used for hanging stuff primarily. Anyways screw that into the back of the Church board then attach the or-16 to that using a large split ring or key ring.

What you dont want to do is add a swivel inbetween the metal screw and split ring so it spins..I did this thinking now after I release this it will come back and be able to spin and not cause any drag..Wrong..thing was like dragging a helicopter blade through water. Live n learn.

[Jose]

I just thought thats how the board worked when it released. My Z boards "helicopter" the whole way in after it trips 30 seconds after being set...hahah