GTRIEM Posted May 26, 2010 Posted May 26, 2010 I have a friend that has replaced his sounder and gps with new, and he thoughtfuly donated his castoff units to me. These units are only 2 years old so its better than what we have now.My question is - what kind or brand of epoxy or glue is to be used for securing the tranducer to the inside of the hull (fiberglass). The instructions show it "potted" about half way up the height of the transducer, about 3/4 of an inch. Was thinking of building a dam around it w/ modeling clay to keep the glue from spreading all over.Any ideas whos glue to do this with?thanks,GTR
usmcpaul Posted May 27, 2010 Posted May 27, 2010 I am not sure I fully understand what you are trying to do, but it sounds like 3-M 4200 or 5200 is in order. They are both rated for below the water line adhesives.
Paulywood Posted May 27, 2010 Posted May 27, 2010 I am assuming this is a shoot-thru hull transducer? I'm not sure what they use to embed it. Does it come with instructions? Or maybe you can find a manual online.
Rayman96 Posted May 27, 2010 Posted May 27, 2010 Years ago I did my own on my first ever new to me boat. I didn't build a box or anything.Just picked a fairly flat part of the hull and poured a 11/2 " thick by 6' diameter pool of silicone.Set the trans. into the silicone making sure there were no air pockets.Placed a level across the top of trans for reference. The trans. was a brass unit.Made sure the silicone was all the way up the side of the transducer.Tied the cable off so as to suspend the trans until the silicone set up.Worked great for me and no mounting screws.
Yoda Posted May 27, 2010 Posted May 27, 2010 We just used a good silicone sealent to stick ours back in place, looked like thats all that was used when whoever put it in installed it.. (12 years ago) we also just did the edge
GTRIEM Posted May 27, 2010 Author Posted May 27, 2010 Thanks.Yes want to shoot thru hull.Had not thought of silicone- the instructions say epoxy, but I don't know what kind...most epoxy yellows and cracks when in the elements, but thats sunlight or uv breaking it down I think, and this will be out of the direct light.GTR
Yoda Posted May 27, 2010 Posted May 27, 2010 Big thing about epoxy is once you glue it in it's there for keeps. I'd try a good Marine silicone/adhesive first, I think you'll be happy with it.. here is the one we did http://www.greatlakesfisherman.com/gallery/files/1/7/6/9/p5260006.jpg' alt='p5260006.jpg'>
usmcpaul Posted May 27, 2010 Posted May 27, 2010 Big thing about epoxy is once you glue it in it's there for keeps. I'd try a good Marine silicone/adhesive first, I think you'll be happy with it.. here is the one we didI tend to agree. The 3-M 4200 I spoke of is supposed to be removable (Although I have never tried) and the 5200 is the non-removable and takes a while to cure. For what its worth, my friend owns a Marina and his mechanic highly suggested the 4200, they use it for all of their thru-hull fittings. I got mine from West Marine, but I am sure there are other Marina supply stores that carry it.I would advise against silicone because it is not rated for under the waterline usage. The 2 above adhesive/sealants are. They are not cheap either, about 15 buck for a small tube.
Rayman96 Posted May 27, 2010 Posted May 27, 2010 I would advise against silicone because it is not rated for under the waterline usage. The 2 above adhesive/sealants are. They are not cheap either, about 15 buck for a small tube.Shooting through the hull will not expose the silicone to water unless it's in the bilge.This use of silicone is for adhesion of the puck to the hull. It's not being used to seal any holes in the hull.I would not use silicone on the outside of the hull to seal holes to keep water out.This my preferred product for a good seal below the water line.http://boatlife.com/life-calk-sealant-tube-3oz.html?SID=c74d72a4ce95a1542c61558b9ab36ec2HIH
twin lake dreamer Posted June 6, 2010 Posted June 6, 2010 west system epoxy...105 resin, 205 hardener. make a box out of wood then fill with epoxy and let set up. after your finished you can remove the wood or let it be, it worked good for me.
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