12' Project Boat, Pics and Questions

[Paulywood]

As some of you know I traded for a 12' aluminum boat and trailer a few weeks ago. I have been working on it and thought I would share my project. I also have a couple of questions I'm hoping you aluminum boat guys can help me with.

I have been removing the paint on the outside with a wire wheel on an angle grinder. The original color was blue and that is on really good. It was painted over with some camouflage by the previous owner, a duck hunter. Here you can see the bare metal and also some painted parts.

Here is a pic of the trailer. I have never seen bearings like this. They were completely seized, one side had been tightened down so far I could barely get the nut off. And the races were visably worn. Not to mention how much slop there was in the bearings themselves. Took me forever to tear them apart and replace them. I got them packed and installed today.

Now, here is where I need help. This is a pic of the top of the transom. 2 pieces of 1/2" ply epoxied together will make up the transom. There are already 3 large holes where the old wood was bolted on. There are also holes where the handles were attached. I plan on using all of these to secure the new transom, including putting the handles back on. The problem I have is there used to be long rivets that went all the way through the transom and this overlap. I'm pretty sure the original wood went all the way up to the top. The one I took off didn't. I want to replace these rivets but don't know where to get them. They will have to be 1 1/4-1 1/2" long. Anyone know where to buy them?

Here another shot of the back. You can see where the extra holes are and where the old wood was.

http://www.greatlakesfisherman.com/gallery/files/8/5/dscn0559.jpg' alt='dscn0559.jpg'>

I already bought a bow mount trolling motor for it. I made a small piece of floor for the front and a platform that goes up for the motor and bow light. The batteries will be mounted up front on the wood floor. I also have a couple of 2x6's that go from the rear seat to the front seat. I have some sides that attach to these and go to the floor. These will all be carpeted over and I will have rod holders, my sonar and my rear light as well as any switches I need. I will be able to run the trolling motor from the rear of the boat. I think I have a small outboard for it, haven't confirmed that yet. What do you think?

[GLF]

Looks like you have been busy!

[Priority1]

Nick,That's quite a project. It looks like it's a labor of love. Keep at it bro.

[usmcpaul]

I want to replace these rivets but don't know where to get them. They will have to be 1 1/4-1 1/2" long. Anyone know where to buy them?

Hey man, I was an aircraft mechanic for about 12 years and have replaced tens of thousands of rivets in my day. So here is my take on your situation. Replacing rivets is generally pretty straight forward, but there are a bunch of different rivets/variables to decide upon. Any local A@P mechanic (Aircraft Mechanic) will be able to hook you up, but if you are not close to an airport you will have to try and order them. Sure you can get them, but will they sell you just 6 or 7? If I were you I would go to a local airport and ask the mechanics for a few rivets, generally they are great guys and will be glad to give you a few, usually they will have a bunch laying in the bottom of their tool box. If not, PM me and I can get a few of the common alloys and sizes sent to me if you give me the correct size. ( I only have a few thousand of the smaller ones left)

The other problem is what kind of rivet are you looking for? The "good" rivets are the solid type, which need to be "bucked" which is actually pretty easy with just an air hammer and pieced of heavy smooth steel generally called "bucking bars". However solid rivets come in a variety of different alloys, D and DD being the most common. I would personally use "ice-box" rivets because they are very soft at the beginning and EXTREMELY HARD when cured, but if you mess up, good luck getting them out. ....Edit ( "ice-box" rivets might be over kill, but still my first choice when going through wood, because they are so soft at the beginning)

The second option is the "blind rivets" which will require a very expensive special gun, and they are actually very inferior to the solid type, but very easy to install, and only used when you cannot access the back of the rivet to buck it. (I do not know if they make an automotive type "pop rivet" that long) and I would not use one on my boat, but I am sort of a "rivet snob"

Your biggest concern is going through 1" of wood. And the problem is that if the rivet starts to bend while you are bucking it, the wood will not "help keep it straight" and you will end up with a totally screwed up joint that will leak and not hold well at all. So the wood has to be hard, and the hole drilled to a close tolerance.

If you want to go with the rivets, PM me, and I can explain it much better, but I rather suggest that you use some stainless steel screws and nuts, with some sealant instead. Or Hi-Lock Fasteners, which only require an allen wrench and box end wrench, but the final length (including compression) needs to be within about 1/8 inch.

Sorry for the rant, I am sure I am over-thinking it, but that is my nature.

[1mainiac]

I would check one of the Semi Trailer shops for long buck rivets or even for really long pop rivets but buck rivets would be stronger. Another option would be to use stainless bolts for them. I bet you are wishing you considered that paint striper about now. You probably could have had it sand blasted in a couple hours. Any how looks like you are making pretty good progress. It should be a very nice boat when you finish it.

[1mainiac]

I see Paul and me are on the same page nothing like bucking a couple thousand rivets in the morning eh.

[usmcpaul]

I see Paul and me are on the same page nothing like bucking a couple thousand rivets in the morning eh.

Frank, If there was a movie made about me, the famous line would be " Ahh, there's nothing like the smell of a freshly bucked rivet in the morning"

[Paulywood]

Thanks guys, couple of comments. I thought about bolts but really don't want all those heads sticking out, too much of a hazard for someone who is prone to beating theirself up. As far as the paint goes, I really haven't spent that long on it. Maybe a couple of hours. My biggest problem is that whenever I spend a day working on something it takes me 2 days to recover with my back still messed up. I was hoping to find someplace that would sell me a few (less than 20) buck rivets. I have an air hammer so I figured I would be able to work with them. They will be above the water line, right on top of the transom, so if they aren't completely watertight it isn't a problem. I can always use epoxy. Guess I'll look around for some rivets or some Hi-Locks, they would work too. Any ideas on the extra hole. I figured I could always epoxy it once the transom is installed. My transom will go to the floor, I cut out one piece today. I have almost all off the wood cut out. Just need to paint it and get it in place. I would like to at least get the trolling motor mounted so I could use it up on Higgins to troll for trout in the next couple of weeks.

[usmcpaul]

Guess I'll look around for some rivets or some Hi-Locks, they would work too.

On second thought, If you are considering the Hi-Locks, just go with a SS nut and bolt, they both have about the same head protrusion and are a lot cheaper/easier. Sorry I got carried away.

[usmcpaul]

They will be above the water line, right on top of the transom, so if they aren't completely watertight it isn't a problem. I can always use epoxy. Guess I'll look around for some rivets or some Hi-Locks, they would work too. Any ideas on the extra hole. I figured I could always epoxy it once the transom is installed.

I would inject the holes with fiberglass resin and cover each end with fiberglass cloth and smooth it out, it will hold forever, and look good.

[Paulywood]

I should have looked them up before I posted. Not what I was thinking. Back to rivets.

[Rayman96]

For any kind of fasteners find a Fastenal store in your area.

http://www.fastenal.com/web/products.ex?N=999600191&Nty=0

As far as holes in the aluminum, there is liquid aluminum in a tube, which when set you can grind to a smooth matching finish.

Now as to the transom board, I would not put it all the way down to the hull. Any water in contact with the board will migrate up and rot it out.

Good luck.

[Adam Bomb]

Why not have that hole welded? Then you can grind it and then sand it with fine grit to get it perfectly smooth. Your going to paint it anyhow. Other than that, looks like your well on your way to having a real nice jon boat. Good luck with the project Nick.