jimbobber Posted January 30, 2010 Posted January 30, 2010 Has any one ever pulled a 305 merc I/O before? Can you pull it out with out taking the lower unit off?I am going to do mine next month to fix oil leaks and put the original exhaust back in the boat.I have read the book and it says i can pull it if i have room enough to move it off the drive shaft so we are going to try i guess.:eek:I will let you know how it goes.
GLF Posted January 30, 2010 Posted January 30, 2010 Dont know if you can do it or not.....but while you have it out, check the splines on the engine coupler.
GTRIEM Posted January 30, 2010 Posted January 30, 2010 I'm no marine mechanic,shadetree at best, but have had our engine and outdrive(350/alpha1)out twice. The outdrive needs to be alighned with the engine. I made a tool but found putting the engine in and having the outdrive ready to install,then hiring the alighnment was easyest. Good time to check/replace those u-joints and bearings. We have an upper bearing that growels at low rpm's makes me crazy.So i think if you pull the engine you dont save anything by leaving the outdrive on...Someone who knows more can say if i'm full-o-it:DGTR
Priority1 Posted January 30, 2010 Posted January 30, 2010 It's easier to pull the outdrive first. I can pull an outdrive in 10 minutes, and reinstall it in about 1/2 hour. You'll need to check the alignment after the engine goes back in. The outdrive has to off to check alignment. Pull the outdrive first. You'll be glad you did. As mentioned, if there is any doubt about the coupler now is the time to change it.
jimbobber Posted January 30, 2010 Author Posted January 30, 2010 Thanks guys,I had a new coupler and joint put in last year when i bought the boat($1,000)along with a few other odds and ends.I am going to have the engine pulled by a pro i think.I hear that the lower can be a pain without the proper tools. Thanks for the input. jimmy
Priority1 Posted January 30, 2010 Posted January 30, 2010 Thanks guys,I had a new coupler and joint put in last year when i bought the boat($1,000)along with a few other odds and ends.I am going to have the engine pulled by a pro i think.I hear that the lower can be a pain without the proper tools. Thanks for the input. jimmy Jim. B. Break O. Out A. Another T. Thousand Aint it the truth.
1mainiac Posted January 30, 2010 Posted January 30, 2010 It is a easy job do the heavy work yourself then take it to get aligned. The drive can be off in 15 min with a way to pull the engine setup you should have the engine on a stand in under a couple of hours easy. You can buy the shaft to do the alignment yourself if you want or do like I did on the last one I pulled leave the drive off and go get it aligned I had a new gimble and boots done at the same time. I have a friend who will come to your place and do the alignment if you want or he can do the whole job it is what he does for a living.
2UNREEL Posted January 30, 2010 Posted January 30, 2010 Pull the outdrive, its easy enough and its lighter than you think it would be. You will need to pull it anyway if you got any use out the outdrive last year at all. The U-joints need greasing every year or 100hrs of use is what I was told. Inspect the rest of the the stuff like the other guys said and leave the big jobs to the pros or it could cost you in the long run.
Side JOB Posted January 30, 2010 Posted January 30, 2010 Everybody hit the nail on the head. Alignment is key. I just had a marine tech do my motor swap he was really reasonable. If interested i will get u the name and mumber.
jimbobber Posted January 30, 2010 Author Posted January 30, 2010 Thanks every one I think I am going to have it pulled out and reinstalled for around $500.00
Side JOB Posted February 1, 2010 Posted February 1, 2010 that was exactly what my guy charged me plus parts of course
jimbobber Posted February 1, 2010 Author Posted February 1, 2010 I have been researching more and i think i can do the job myself,I have lots of guys (who have fished with me ) that are willing and qualified to help, so wish me luck I am going to start it the first weekend of March to ensure its ready by April!!!! Can't wait to chase them ho's in South haven!come on Spring!!!!!!
Nailer Posted February 1, 2010 Posted February 1, 2010 so wish me luck I am going to start it the first weekend of March to ensure its ready by April!!!!!! Good luck Jim
1mainiac Posted February 2, 2010 Posted February 2, 2010 Like I said in my first post Jim it ain't that hard getting the drive alignment correct is the only issue. The rest is just nuts and bolts and is much easier than pulling a 350 out of a chevy truck.
jimbobber Posted March 17, 2010 Author Posted March 17, 2010 Hey guys here is an update on the Jimbobber repairs, i pulled the engine out a week ago ,didnt go so bad had her out in about three hours:D(not bad for a fist timer i quess), when i pulled her i found the motor mount blocks where gone :angry2:so tonight i cut them out and found nothing but mush:eek:! But the surrounding wood is wet but still strong and not rotten sooooo i am going to let it air out and build up some new blocks out of marine plywood and fiberglass and glass it all in this should do the job.I also checked the transom and found one small spot that was soft but for the most part it's in good shape so ithink i will save that for another years project.Hope to get the motor done in the next two weeks and the glass done before that so i can still be on the water in mid april. Thanks for your advise guy's. jimmy
Paulywood Posted March 17, 2010 Posted March 17, 2010 Jim, while you can access it easily it might be worth while to inject some penetrating epoxy into that weak spot in the transom. Just drill a couple of small holes and inject it around the area to strengthen it. Should protect it for a couple more years. Just a thought.
jimbobber Posted March 17, 2010 Author Posted March 17, 2010 Nick, Thanks you read my mind i was already planning on it,It will only help. Jimmy
1mainiac Posted March 17, 2010 Posted March 17, 2010 Might want to do a little research on transom replacement it is miserable work but not that hard and cool weather is the best time to do it. Git Rot will help but sooner or later you have to fix the transom any how so might be worth looking into doing it now while you already have the motor out.
jimbobber Posted March 20, 2010 Author Posted March 20, 2010 Well I took the darn oil pan off today and found pieces of piston skirt in it:angry2::angry2: soooooo now it goes to the rebuild shop next week I am still hopeful that i can get it done my the end of april I hope!
Paulywood Posted March 20, 2010 Posted March 20, 2010 Tough luck. While they are rebuilding it maybe they shoudl bore it out a little and make it a 350? Just a thought. Did you check into crate or reman engines, might be cheaper.
Nailer Posted March 20, 2010 Posted March 20, 2010 Well I took the darn oil pan off today and found pieces of piston skirt in it:angry2::angry2: soooooo now it goes to the rebuild shop next week I am still hopeful that i can get it done my the end of april I hope! Ouch! Good luck with it Jim.
Priority1 Posted March 20, 2010 Posted March 20, 2010 Well I took the darn oil pan off today and found pieces of piston skirt in it:angry2::angry2: soooooo now it goes to the rebuild shop next week I am still hopeful that i can get it done my the end of april I hope! Jimmy, Check out this place. You may be able to buy cheaper than rebuild. http://www.michiganmotorz.com/
jimbobber Posted March 20, 2010 Author Posted March 20, 2010 Sounds like I can get a long block rebuild for $1500.00 from a local guy. jimmy
Priority1 Posted March 21, 2010 Posted March 21, 2010 Sounds like I can get a long block rebuild for $1500.00 from a local guy. jimmy Jim, Sounds like a good deal. It's tough to get an auto engine rebuilt for that.
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now