Downrigger board setup- Looking for options

[Hotdog71]

Hey guys I'm looking for ideas for a new downrigger board. You all have been great with all my other questions so I'm hoping you can come through for me again.

Here's what I'm working with:

I have a 19ft Proline center console. I currrently run 4 downriggers off a pressure treated 2x8 that sits on gimble mounts in my flush rod holders. I think I want to move my 2 outside riggers toward the bow to allow my inside riggers a little more room. I would also like to be able to remove the board for transport purposes. I have just the 2 flush rod holders. How can I get a U shaped board onto my boat without putting holes in my boat and still be secure and sturdy? If you have any pics I would be interested in seeing what you have. Suggestions? Is it possible?

Thanks

Bob

[GLF]

Do you have a picture of the way it currently looks?

[Hotdog71]

I do but not a close up. How would I get it posted?

[GLF]

Read this post.

[Hotdog71]

[Hotdog71]

Here is the back without the riggers on. They lay right across the back of the bait tank.

[Paulywood]

If I understand it you want to make a board that goes straight across the back and then turns and comes forward along the gunnels? And right now you are using 2 gimbal mounts in flush mount holders? I'm not sure that the 2 gimbal mounts are going to be the best choice for that much pressure. Ideally you would add 2 more mounting spots farther forward. You could add 2 more flush mount holders and then have 2 more gimbal mounts. I know you don't want to cut any holes but this seems to be a good compromise. Then you could look into a bigger board, although I would recommend going to aluminum to reduce weight. But it could be done with wood. A laminate construction epoxied over would be the strongest and longest lasting. Then you could integrate the 3 pieces (back and 2 sides) into one. It would be very strong. The problem with not adding any more mounting points is that the pressure from the riggers would twist the front of the board up, putting a lot of pressure on the 2 mounting points. The flush mount holders are easy to install (just need a hole saw) and you could match them to your existing ones so no one would be able to tell the weren't from the factory.

[LongLine]

You could make a "u" shapped board and use aluminum angle supports under it. The added stress from the forward riggers will tend to force the front of the board downward, not upward. Whether the force on the mounts will totally cancel the forces from the inside two is a subject for mathematical debate.

If I wanted more room for the inside riggers, I think I'd actually move them inward and remount them at an angle. Who says riggers must be mounted perpendicular or parrallel to the transom?

[Paulywood]

I was thinking that the force would be from the blowback on the rigger balls. Either way you could put some supports underneath the board at various spots to relieve pressure. If it was me I would still feel better with 2 extra mounting points. I don't know how the flush mounts are reinforced beneath the gunnels, if at all.

[JWheeler]

Just thinking out loud here, but if it were mine......I would have a board preferably made of aluminum on the port side and on the starboard side. You could put the riggers close enough together that they would still swivel around and still have room for other rod holders towards the bow of the boat. A couple more rod holders and maybe even a bird tree near the helm. This way the back of the boat would be wide open and your bait tanks would still be accessible.

[1mainiac]

I have to agree with Nick 2 rod holders for 4 riggers is asking for trouble. I have been kicking this around in my head for a while. I am also not totally thrilled with my 4 rigger setup. I laid out the setup this spring to work with my canvas and was very happy everything worked as planned. Then I got to go fishing my setup does not work as well as it sounded. It works but not great I want my rear riggers a little further apart and my side rigger further back. But every thing I have tried gets in the way of my canvas. I am going see if I can afford a sliding track system then I can slide them out of the way for my canvas and get them where I want them to fish. Maybe you should consider the other option I am and that is to use 3 riggers one in the center and one on each side then you can get the seperation and put less stress on your mounts but it is still a lot of stress on the 2 rod holders. But like me you allready have 4 riggers so now you just figure out how to get them to work for you. Even though I know after fishing this season the 3 rigger setup would be less trouble I am still gonna get all 4 to work some how. Well as I reread this it may not be much help but as I told a friend a couple years ago when he counted every hole in his new boat based on how much it would cost to have them repaired later. Fishing is a psycosis we inheirit from our friends and family once we begin into this mind numbing state we are hooked like junkies we know that we can out fish anyone all we need is the gear. Sadly you have a beautifull boat so you don't want to punch it full of holes till you know for sure it will work. I don't blame you what you really need is to find a few guys with the same boat and see how they set them up and decide what you can live with.

Tight Lines

Jim

[Hotdog71]

Thanks for the responses guys. I was chatting with Nick and Mike last night and Mike had an interesting solution. What if I built a riser out of wood that would slip over the cleats that are in front of the gimble mounts, approx. 8in. Then secure it to the cleat with a couple of J latches. Oh and some white rubber to protect the glass from the wood. What do you think? Is it worth the effort?

[Nailer]

I like Nicks first idea the best.

[Priority1]

I would add two more flush gimbal type rod holders where you want the forward riggers and mount them individually. I would mount the rear riggers in the existing rod-holders and have them angled inward slightly. On most days you would probably only run the rear riggers and the out and downs could be removed and a triple rod holder set up could be dropped in the flush rod holders using a gimbal adapter. This set up would be easier to stow than a board and you would have a clean look, when none of it was in use. The track systems are nice also. The reason for suggesting the gimbal setup, is you are half way there.

[Paulywood]

You could use the Eagle Feet on your cleat. They mount securely to cleats. Or you could do what I did. I removed the cleats and then had a custom aluminum bracket made that bolted into the original cleat holes. When I sold the boat I put the cleats back on. Couldn't even tell. Frank's got a good idea, too. Looks like you have a few options. anyway.

[1mainiac]

I had to do some running around today so I stopped at Sportfishermen Center and looked at a couple of the Proline boats. They did not have a 190 on display so I talked to a salesman about it for a bit. He told me that none of the 190's they have sold had been reinforced for downriggers on the rod holders. The transoms are also not reinforced for a kicker motor. He said the first thing to do would be to remove the rod locker and see if the rod holders have been reinforced. After looking at the 20ft Sport they had I would seriously consider a track setup on each side then you could change setups any way you want. But no matter which way you go make sure the area is reinforced to handle the stress of downriggers.

Tight Lines

Jim

[LongLine]

Apparently what you have works thus is not too much stress on the mounts. (Unless it twists squeaks or the glass bows when you’re under way) The mounts are a fulcrum and the board is the lever. Currently you have the force from two of the riggers pulling somewhat downward on one on end of the lever (aft of the fulcrum) and the force from the other two directly on top of the fulcrum. Moving two riggers towards the bow moves their forces to the other side of the lever (bow side of the fulcrum) hence forces will tend to balance the lever or cancel each other out.

However a board that is not straight across will become unwieldy to handle & stow upon removal. If you want more room around the riggers and angling them won’t do the trick then I’d go with a track system. One thing to think about though is how you net the fish you catch. Do you get them off the back or off the side? I would not advise mounting riggers in the way of netting fish.