salmonquest

Thanks for the tip. I live 5 miles from jays in gaylord. I'll check it out.

I recently submitted a negative post. In order to keep balance with the universe here is a positive one. 3 yrs ago i put a moose county plow on my gruzzly 600. Best move i've made in awhile. Great plow handles deep northern michigan snow and makes clearing the driveway kind of fun. I had a few minor problems and their customer service stepped up. No questions asked. Highly recommend their company and i see they have a new line of plows for atv and utv. Looking for something to move snow..they have it!

And i've got he drill. Is there a special auger attatchment. I don't thin my chuck is big enough?

This is a fyi post about my opinions on the strikemaster electra 1200 dp auger. Overview: piece of junk...expensive anchor. Details: i recieved this auger as a christmas present 2 years ago. 1 st problem no receipt. Put together auger and charged it up for rcommeneded time. Couldn't get out to fish for a few days. When i did...no juice:mad: ok should have charged it the night before but shouldn't it hold a charge. Used it twice more. Ran ok but only about 20 hpoles through 6" ice. Pretty disapointed in perfomance, ut better than hand auger. Stored in garage. Last winter charged it up and hit the ice no juice ok after talking eith service center we realize bad battery. He in forms me the "ice" auger can't be left outside?? Wtf buy new battery $440 into his thing. Used a few times no problem, but disapointing battery life on new battery as well no more than 15 holes through 5-6" ice:confused: Store it inside this time. Put charger on it per manual. Green light on charger. figure got it this time. Charge before first trip. Drive 6 guys an hour and a hakf with only auger on full charge....doesn't work at all:mad::mad: wtf ffff:confused: Calked strikemaster..left message.. No response. Emailed...no response...emailed again...no response...called again talked to someone live offered to service it if i send it in. Wonder who is paying for that....oh right me. We'll see if they fix it and charge me. Will not be happy at all. Would not recommend this product!!!

Holy cow. Really makes me re-evaluate my safety procedures for small boat fishing....or really any boat fishing.

I am looking to add some electronics to my ice fishing game. at first iwas going to go with a vexilar. But now I'm considering the 385ci. I figured it might not be quite as good as the vex but could be satisfactory and have the gps and summertime flexibility. Of course if i do go this route I may go big and opt for the elite5 ice machine. Any one have experience or recommendation on these?

You Are correct oak is very acidic but reacts with iron so should be safe for aluminum applications, however it is very porous and prone to swelling, and splitting. Those who have restored wooden boats know the first thing you do when you are done is sink the boat. This causes the oak to swell and the craft to be more water tight. Plus oak tends to be heavy. I am glad the application worked for you. If you are going to stick with hardwood I would recommend: teak, mahogany, or cypress a more suited for this application, although really i think a material like manufactured decking such as azek would be best although perhaps need to be structurally reinforced. http://en.allexperts.com/q/Woodworking-2320/black-spots-hardwood.htm http://forums.iboats.com/showthread.php?t=238336&page=1

I wouldn't recommend oak for bunk purposes. It has open pores on the surface which promotes mold growth as well as being reactive with many metals plus it's prone to shrink. Plus being a lot more $$$ Every bunk I've seen has been made of treated lumber. The carpet covering should be enough to protect the hull. Even if a small hole develops the hull will still not be on direct contact with the board. I would recommend double dip hardware though.

Where you on grand side or arch? Nice work sounds like a good haul

I would stack the riggers with flasher fly on top and spoon on bottom with longer lead ala keating. Stagger them 10-15 ft on each rigger then stagger your rigger depth as well. Then two dipseys I like chart. Dipsey with Siggs green hypnotist custom combo

I have to go with the diggs rigs custom combos by far our best producers

My folks live on the north lake Michigan shore of the straits. When iwas a kid we had a couple bing alewife die offs. One was so bad we carried them in wheelbarrows and burned them. Used to get a penny a fish. Dad stopped paying us after day one. They always got mixed in the gravel stunk to high heaven

I recently purchased two big jon 12" risers to mount my down riggers on. I am planning on backing these with steel and through bolting the whole thing. i would like to also use the big john swivel bases. My question is should put the swivel bases on top or bottom. The main bar on the riser is rectangular. I am worried if I mount the swivel on top and angle the downrigger it would put torque diagonaly and lead to twisting. If I mount the swivel base on the bottom the tension would always be supported by the longer side of the riser bar, but it would put a lot of torque on the swivel base. Any suggestions would be very welcome.

I have been told that one purpose of the skeg is to be sacrificial and protect the prop, much the way it happened in this incident and that the bolt on skegs are too strong. Can anyone verify this?

I was fishing in Canada and making a run back to camp. I hit an unmarked rock that was out in the channel it broke the skeg off and dented the cone shaped housing on lower unit approx. 3/8" deep. This caused a small crack and it was leaking oil. We pulled the boat, drained the oil. Cleaned the area and applied jb weld. It sat over night and we refilled with oil. It ran fine the next two days. I am going to look at a shop to repair the skeg. Anyone have experience with this? What should I do about the cracked housing? The jb weld seems to be holding fine. Can it be welded? I am worried that if it can be welded the process will cause expansion an warp the gears or housing more. Any help here would be appreciated.

Erik I hope everything goes well. Please take this advice with a grain of salt. No one hospital is great or bad. I have had multiple dealings with too many. Trust your instincts. If your doc is a straight shooter who you can trust and seem confident than I'm sure you are in great hands if you have misgivings ask for someone else or go somewhere else. You are putting your life in their hands. Don't trust hospitals only on reputation they have hundreds of people and no shocker they aren't all the best. Wish I would have realized this sooner. Best of luck will say prayers

If that swim platform lowers you can walk mr. King right on board," welcome aboard sir let me show you to the galley."

Looks like fun. Something about projects like this gets the juices flowing

My dad just bought a motorguide 24v trolling motor. I"m not sure about the model. He was wondering about the best way to wire this. We are trying to mount it on the Grady White and Battery space is an issue. I know nothing about this so here is a laundry list of questions. 1.) I thought I saw 24v batteries. Are there and are they deep cycle? 2.) Would one 24V battery be better than two 12v wired together? 3.) If you wire two 12 v and one went down could the motor be powered with one without damage? 4.) Are there limitations on the length of wiring? Can we run a wire the 17' or so to the back of the boat? 5.) As a seperate set-up should we install a breaker bar or switch? Thanks guys.

Thanks for the report. Hope things pick up there.

O.K. I'm convinced. Definately like the Hewes craft. i have seen a couple at boat shows. New #1 on the list. after looking around and looking at prices (yikes) I think we'll stick with our set up. It's very hard to get rid of a quality boat that has treated you well. The few issues we were having could be relieved by small changes to teh set up. Thanks for sharing everyone.

Thanks for the input guys. It's going to be a hard sell for my dad since he loves the 'glass boats and the ocean worthy rep of a grady white but there is something about those lunds and dual consol starcraft, and crestliners I like. I think I'll have to get him to take a spin in one.

My dad and I may be looking at trying to trade in our Grady-White for an Aluminum fishing boat. It seems that Lund gets top billing at a lot of sites. How do other aluminum boats rank for big water fishing?

What do you guys usually run on the core early? Spoons or flasher/fly?

When you run a leadcore down the chute do you pull it when another rod get's hit? Do you have many instances with a tangle or getting snagged on teh core?