1mainiac

Have not made a list conditions change every day I have a GTM40 and every now and then I clip it on a ball or slide it down one of my diver rods before I pull it just to see what actual temp and depth it is running at. I wish they still made them I would buy a couple more. Clip it on the rigger cable of your deepest ball and send it down it gives temp readouts for every 5 ft all the way down, and tells you what the actual depth is when it stops going down. I can tell you my 300 copper only goes down 53ft at 2.5 mph with a clean spoon and the GTM 40 on it.

Nick scratch me form the next tourney at Port Sheldon I don't want to offend anyone but it is not worth the boat gas. The last event took 72 in boat gas 10 bucks in truck diesel and 15 to enter and paid 27 bucks for 2nd place. I can fish 2 days in Muskegon for the same money and run as many lines as I want. I may fish in the last 2 events at Muskegon. When you mentioned going to 9 lines I thought I would give Sheldon one more try but if there is little to no chance of even breaking even on the trip I am going to fish at home.

I can't say what I pay for mine but I get the 500 ft spools from Captain Gary's and it was well under a 100 bucks. I buy the 500ft roll cause I can get 2 250ft cables out of it I can then reverse the 250 and use the end that has never been wet. Also my thought fro deep summer fishing is what good does it do to have a probe that works down to 200ft that only comes with a 200ft cable mening you will be down to your last wrap or 2 on the spool to ever get it that deep. With the cost of probes cannon balls cables and connectors I am never letting mine out to a empty spool. Also with 180ft out and a 12lb ball and the probe it is only down 135 at 2.5 mph surface speed. So unless I can get rid of the Blowback I doubt I could ever get the ball below 200 even with 250 on the spool. I have 400ft of cable on my rear riggers so I can send them as deep as I will ever need.

Actually I think Moor sells them ready to install one other option is to bolt the probe on to the Klincher and you get rid of one more connection that can fail. I used my Dremel tool to grind off the rivet head so I did not even wreck the swivel only took about 3 min to do it.

Well one option would be tamper proof bolts to mount everything with. There are several choices in how hard you want them to come off. The best ones snap off clean and you have to drill them back out. Without a good pic hard to say how many ways I could come up with to slow any one trying to take them down.

Tony I have been thru several cables on mine in the 4 years I have had it get a Dremel tool and the small buffer and deburr all of your pullies. The coating is fairly tough but won't take much iratation to start it peeling. I now buy the cable in 500ft rolls put 250 on and use it till it is bad then take it off and reverse it I have not found any way to repair it once it peels. Also check all your connections mine works down past 100ft with regular cable and when this last cable gives out completely I am putting regular cable back on and living with reduced performance. With the lost probe last year and regular cable replacement I have more into kepping it working than I paid for it.

Blasting the hull may be overkill but walnut shells and light media won't hurt the hull. Inspect every rivet and seam carefully. Remove any pop rivets and replace with buck rivets if possible. I did my 18 Srtarcraft with 1/2 marine grade plywood which I then sealed each peice before installing it and I overlapped it with a second layer of 1/2 plywood with all the seams reversed so it was solid as a rock I also built in a rod locker in the floor while I was laying it out so consider what you want it to look like and build what you want. Pour foam is most likely the best way to deal with foaming it in I never finished mine as my wife made me buy a bigger boat she was not comfortable in the 18 with no bathroom. Weight below the water line won't hurt you much and will add to overall stability. I really liked my old Starcraft but had a chance to get a bigger boat and wife wanted indoor plumbing so I traded it to my my brother. Oh and I have a friend who is over 500lbs and he fished on my boat several times and the dbl planked floor held just fine solid as a rock to work on.

We went 5 for 6 today first fish in around 90 ft south of channel on a meat rig which wa sonly fish that hooked up on meat we did have one fish steal the meat out of the other rig. Lemon Ice Blue dolphin took fish in the 160 to 180 FOW north of the nets. Hopefully tommorrow will be better.

no problem Mike was thinking the same thing but then figured that was last year LOL let me know. See ya in the morning.

I am also avail to try em will give a honest report.

Don't use them on a diver rod should be fine on a board or high line. But have seen too many rod holders fail over the years on divers to have much trust in anything not made of metal and heavy duty.

I run Off Shore releases behind Blacks that are modified to not open seems strange but works good for me.

it is gonna be speed and current sensitive when I go to 1lb balls I just let em out till they hit reel em up a min and let em back out till they hit again. once I know where bottom is for sure reel in about 5 to 20 ft and troll if depth or cond change find bottom again and reset. Once I know I am close to the bottom I change speeds now and then to let em hit bottom. I get more Lakers than Kings but is often the bigger fish.

Should go back again some day spent a lot of my summers up there as a kid mostly in the lake Nipagon area caught thousands of big fish up there. I can remember catching Perch the size of bass 10 to 15in all day long and the pike and walleye would yank your arm off when they hit.

We should try a night or 2 this year and see what happens maybe just a big fish only event so scoring would be easy and we could see how it would sched out. I would like to fish till sundown at least but I know trying to weigh in at 10 pm or later would be hard an a lot of guys who need to get up in the morning esp those with longer drives home. Might have to be just a home court group because having to get home from work and get to the boat launch means a 6:30 pm leave time for me most nights and having to pull lines at 8:30 or so to make a early weigh in would not be worth fishing for me. I fish a lot of evenings and seldom get in much before 11 pm.

Have to agree Frank I love all my ICOM gear my 735 Icom is 25 years old and still works flawlessly. As does my 746 Pro they know how to build a radio and are hard to beat.

Nope you cant move the flywheel if you want the motor to run it is what balances the engine to stop vibration and has the timing marks it is also keyed to the crank so you get no other choices. One idea to loosen the nut is to remove a spark Plug and shove a rope in the cylinder then let the bendix engage with the flywheel and when the piston hits the rope irt will no longer turn allowing you to take off the nut it is how we used to get flywheel nuts loose.

Well I just thought your radio had fish sickness LOL

Only reason I can think of to buy more than on color is to keep which one goes where straight.

Idle and spark knock likely the same issue you have a vacuum leak most likely. With the engine running spray some carb cleaner around the entire intake and base of carb if you hear a engine change you have sprayed the leaking area. The engine will not idle down if it is sucking air and high speed spark knock is often due to running lean also from sucking air. The only way I know of to not have a neutral is if your gears in the lower are galled up or sticking so you must have a neutral somewhere just not where it is supposed to be likely you have a misadjustment between the neutral safty switch and the shift interupter you have to get neutral in the right spot first. then forward and reverse and shift interupter adjustments from there.

Chk this out might be what you are really looking for price is pretty good. http://www.michigan-sportsman.com/classifieds/showproduct.php?product=14653 Just posted today so might want to act fast.

You might try Brian at West Michigan Mobile Marine kind of a long drive for him but it is what he does for a living. 616-677-1919.

If you are going to go with a 14 try and get a 20in transom model will give you a little more gunnel height also consider a bow cover and making a self bailer for the rear. Getting your tail or nose caught in a wave sucks so even a partial bow cover will help and can give you some needed storage space the same for the stearn in a small boat it is hard to use that space anyhow so closing it off and making it self bailing is a good idea also can use part of the self bailer area for down rigger mounts if done right. Another idea to consider is putting in a floor and foaming below it this adds weight below the water line and makes moving around while fishing much nicer.

I have fished in Wisconson before out of Muskegon but that was nearly 30 years ago and everything was much cheaper back then. Sad or funny thing though is I am back to the same hourly wage I made back then. Other then friends family and fishing I should have never came back to Michigan.

Nice save Mark and it really is a long ways out to 300 at Sheldon even longer if you end up nearly straight out from Holland when you get that deep.