1mainiac

And another year comes to a end 1st and 2nd were pretty much a lock after last week the battle was in 3rd place. Which was taken by team Fishsniffer however only 6 points separated 3rd 4th and a 2 boat tie for 5th.

updated results

First off there is no buy this and run it unless you match your setup to what the board wants to do. So you will find if you want to pull a lot of different setups you will need a lot of different boards. My boat has Z Boards, Ziggy boards, Off Shore yellow boards and Church TX44 boards on it. I chose the board based on what I am running for light setups I run the Off Shore boards which I have made a few mods to. Deep setups require big boards so for 300 and longer copper I use my TX44 boards. Generally most of my setups will run on my Z Boards. I am not going to tell you what to buy but I can tell you how to improve nearly any of them. Z Boards, Yellow Bird and Ziggy boards are easy to run and tune but do not let you move the weight so you have to match the board size to the setup. Running too much board only means more trouble getting them in and fighting the board can cost you fish.

I have 20 boards on my boat and several different setups on them. I do not run any of the Church Walleye boards I had some several years ago and sold them in a yard sale. I know many will tell you what a great job they do for them but to be honest I doubt any of them have ever seen what can be done with a better board setup. The Church Walleye board is designed for walleye fishing which is slow speeds and shallow diving setups generally working the top 25ft of water. My fall Steelhead spread can be 800ft wide with boards 400ft out on each side. You can't get enough line on a reel to get a stock Walleye board that wide. I have modded nearly every common board out there my personal fav is still the Z Boards which are no longer available. Like I said in my other post is is a simple geometry problem the board wants to run straight thru the water it also needs to be vertical and level so it can work. Once you have the board running correctly the only improvement is to increase the angle from the front release to the rear. This is done by lengthening the front arm so the line angle thru the releases is greater and this forces the board to run wider because the board wants to run straight so it must get wider to setup.

Here is a shot of a couple of my TX 44 boards after the mods running about 3.5mph inside is pulling a 450 copper outside is a 300 copper.

The Blood Run mods are mine and Greg's combined work I showed him several of my modded boards and he blended the changes with some of his own. The difference in how they run is amazing. There are 3 angles involved in making a board run correctly. 1st the board angle is set by the angle from the front release to the rear release subtract this angle from 90 and it will give you a idea of how the board will track. Most stock boards have a angle of around 15 to 20 deg this means the board will run back at a 70 to 75 deg angle off the boat. Making the front release arm longer increases this angle and makes the board run wider. 2nd the board needs to run vertical in the water this is adjusted by raising or lowering the front release. If the release is too high the board will lean in and skip to low and it will lean out and dig and dive. 3rd angle is getting the board to sit level in the water this is adjusted by moving the weight too much front weight the board dives too much rear and the nose is up and it won't track correctly.

First off you should be able to run a 300 copper on the yellow Off Shore boards. That said there are tricks to make them work better. 1st move the rear release to the end of the board about 3/4 in up from the bottom. 2nd take the release off the arm and add a 1in split ring between arm and the release. 3rd move the weight further forward you need to take a dremel tool or something and remove the partition so you can slide the weight all the way forward. Use a OR16 on the rear and use whatever front release works best for you on the front. Moving the weight forward will make the board dive on short cores so only do a couple boards for long lines.

Holy high gain Batman looks like we need to use depth charges LOL. That reminds me of a friend of mines fishfinder he had every gain maxed out. Plus he had fish ID on max and the thing rang like a monkey on a piano til I could no longer take it and reset it for him.

updated standings

today's results

updated results

results

Sorry guys gotta scratch me off the list boat is still not running. I will see you all at weigh in.

Another great turnout 22 boats one DNF due to Towing in another boat. I thought Fishsniffer was our official towing service provider LOL. So we only had 21 weigh in which is still our best turnout ever. It was kinda tough fishing fish were scattered and tough to get going and we really never found much of a pattern other than we found a lot of lures that would not catch fish. What worked was a Panty Ho on a 2 color 2 Steelhead including our big fish a 16.45lb Steelhead. 200 copper with a flounder pounder took 2 fish a king and a Laker. Sprint Car UV took a king on a free slider rigger down 80. Met Blue Froggie on a 150 copper took a small king. White dodger with green Spin and Glo took 2 lakers.

The numbers after 2 Events [ATTACH]1147[/ATTACH]

Here are todays results

Today's score sheet

Don called me today and we made a minor rule change to rule 7. It now reads as follows. 7.All boats will stage within ¼ mile of the pier head prior to the 6am start Event boundaries are in effect no boat shall fish south of 043.00.000 or north of 043.30.000. With this change you may now fish from any port within our boundary area we will try to get port captains for each port to insure a fair start for all. There is no end of fishing time it is your responsibility to be on time to weigh in. You must start and finish from the same port. You cannot start in one port and finish in another if you trailer you may choose your port but must begin and end fishing from the same port.

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