1HI4X

Correct. Do not attach a board to your lead core. Unfortunately this isn't a "buy one reel with 10 colors and fish every depth" scenario. If you want to target multiple depths, you'll need multiple setups. I have six: 2,3,5,8,10,12 colors. Then there's copper...

I'm not sure I fully understand either. You don't want to attach your board to the leadcore, only your backing. I think what he was saying was some people like to clip the board on right after the lead core but he likes to let more line out before clipping the board on to allow the lead core to sink more and to get the board away from the knot. I do the same thing for the same reason.

It's a good starting point. Don't get wrapped up in thinking temp is a hard rule. Your link is pretty good info though.

One reel is sold, one still available.

Without line, power handles, or extra drags:$80/ea shipped.

For sale: I have two Daiwa Sealine SG47LC reels with power handles from Tuna's Reel Trouble, 50# Power Pro braid, and new in the package Dragmasters carbon fiber drag washers. The drag washers were included with the power handles and never installed since the drags were still in good shape. I bought these reels about a year ago from Priority1 (Frank), had the braid installed to serve as backups to my wire divers, and used them 2-3 times. They have seen more use from Frank and being put in and out of the boat than anything else. The power handles have two mounting positions, both of which are longer than the stock handle. Both handles are included so in total you have three different handle lengths. There is mono backing under the braid and I don't remember exactly how much braid is on the reels. It's plenty though. Edit: braid length is 500', 500' mono backing. Price is $125 each, shipped USPS.

Short answer, yes.

Jim, Have you tried using the TX-44 pinch pads on the walleye boards instead of the lock jaw? They would not get the line as high as the lock jaw but there would be no way for the board to release due to the orientation of the pads. I set two boards up this way but haven't a chance to try this setup.

Copper and lead core, both are the same off a board. All it is is weighted line. As I mentioned, you should have no issues pulling a full core (10 colors) behind a walleye-size board. I don't use the offshore boards, but if you use the same size as the church walleye boards you'll be good to go. You can make the Minor mods (such as moving the rear anchor and moving the weight) linked above without having to buy new boards. Even with the boards mostly underwater you should still be able to detect a fish (loosen your drag and watch for it to fall back). The boards will still drop back even if they don't normally track properly. The planer boards just can't keep the weight of the fish out to the side too so it will drop back toward the back of the boat.

His mods are here.http://www.bloodruntackle.com/planer-board-mods-tips/

You should be able to pull a 300 copper or full core behind a walleye board with no modifications. Even in rough water. Granted they could run better with mods, but you shouldn't be having major issues. We did just that this weekend in Frankfort during the Benzie Frenzy. Day one started in solid 2-3' waves and subsided to 2'. No issues whatsoever with the boards. More than 300 copper were pulled on the bigger TX-44's. Forget the flags. Watch for the boards to fall back or loosen your drags.

Robert, if the spoons aren't taking any hits give some flys and plugs a try and don't get too attached to one rig or the other. Keep swapping things out until you figure out what they want. Spoons have remained hot late this year, which for me is odd. I fished the Manistee Salmon Splash last weekend and we took fish on spoons, flys, meat rigs, and plugs. Everything. Dipsys and long lines were hot.