DangerDan

Yeah, your probably right, but thanks for trying though...

Based on passed experiences I'd tend to agree with the following: http://forums.turbobricks.com/archive/index.php/t-44237.html Overpowering the speaker is a no-no, and explained in simple physics and knowelege of an electrical circuit , power = v x a; and for a audio amplifier, the output is alternating current governed by the frequency of sound that the music contains. Low frequencies contain the most peak current, so over driving the sub will cause didtortion in the voice coil of the cone or driver. High frequencies on the other hand, require little amounts of current by comparison but have very high peak voltage and will usually cause excessive high frequency distortion before any speaker damage is done. It is the smaller diameters of the cone that produce the high's and larger diameters produce bass, driven by the excursion distance of the voice coil resonating the cone. If the peak frequencies that are amplified exceed the spec's of the cone, the circuit, both amp and speaker will be subjected to damage casued by heating of the coil or mechanical limits of the cone material - RIP!!! Or more common in a sub, the coil seizes due to long periods of overpowering. Since heat is the cause of this, the coil requires more current which over taxes the amplifier, and will blow the amp if not protected. Extended periods of overpowering can slowly degrade the cone material. Have you ever taken a piece of paper and folded it repeatedly? Eventually it tears apart easilly. This is what you're doing to your speaker by overpowering it. Accurate speaker and amp rating are done in RMS watts, not peak watts, so disrgard any manufacturer's rating based on peak handling performance, because this is solely dependant on the music or alternating current distribution from the amp and music you choose to play. RMS, or root mean square is the description of a balanced power distribution for a time weighted average across all frequencies the speaker is intended to reporduce, meaning this speaker or amp can handle X amount of power at X to XX frequecies over a given timed average interval. Underpowering cannot produce distortion in itself. The audible difference in sound is apparent, as Doug mentions above, but it is due to the fact that different frequiencies take different power levels to achieve a uniform balanced decible lever out ot the speaker. So when the power is too low, the low and mid frequencies are not getting the correct excursion of the speaker cone to accurately produce those frequencies. The minimum RMS value is the lowest power that is recommended to produce a balanced flat frequency response from the speaker. In general, the speaker should be able to handle far more power than the amp can put out. This way, speaker distortion never enters the picture, nor does overheating of the voice coil. This also ensures tha the amp doen't get overdriven, mostly because you would hear the amplifier disortion and turn it down before any amp damage is done. Also, turning up an amp and driving a speaker with noticable distortion can cause the speaker to be damaged because the alternating current for any given frequency gets out of phase with respect to another frequency. Think of it like one's pushing the cone while the other's pulling. I would choose an amp with an RMS rating that is 60% of the speaker RMS rating. It's a pretty interesting discussion on the issue.

It's not so much the amperage that you'll need as it is "reserve capacity" You'll want to try to find a battery that will give you plenty of reserve capacity, a decent battery switch, perhaps even a combiner.

either 7, 7, 8 and 10 or, 5,7,8 and 10... I seem to have most of the hits on 7 color during that hot July fishing. I'd rather go with copper rather than full core or greater.

Scratch that... 4 ohms yes, you have 4 ohm speakers so you would do fine with a compatable Amplifier @ 4 ohms

you can use 2 ohm but it will cost more for the equipment. In reviewing your speaker specs I'd go with a 2 ohm system. You may need bass blockers for those 6 1/2" sonys. your speakers are indeed rated at 2 ohm so you can use an amp say 80 or 100w per channel. While I've been adding to my system gradually, I knew what components I would be adding and how I wanted my wattage configured. For instance, My rear infinity kapas are rated for 110watts RMS but 330 peak. I actually have 150w of power capability through 2ohm but I don't run my stereo full blast so max I probably only push between 40 and 80watts max usually going to the speakers. Now, my front speakers (the Bose) are 6 ohm. They are about as good a speaker as you can buy but are only rated for about ea 60 or 80watts RMS before clipping starts. by having a higher impedance I get "balance through design" not through adjustment though I still have the ability to adjust everything to my liking. In a matter of speaking I balance my speakers through impedance, then fine tune further adjustments. This gives me almost perfect response from my system. (Sorry, getting carried away) As far as a brand, it depends on what you are trying to accomplish. You can power your speakers with Wally World amps so long as you don't over power your speakers. I ran el cheapo amps from Walmart I dug out of my garage until I added a higher quality amp and my Infinity speakers. Just be careful. You have to understand that RMS and peak wattage mean totally different things. Though you can occaisionally go over the 80 watts you'll experience a serious drop in performance when you approach that level of power. Thats why I feel there is no need to overpower your system. Middle of the line equipment will give you great performance without having to spend the extra coin. Damn!!! this place beat my price by over 70 bucks.... Arrrrgh! http://www.onlinecarstereo.com/CarAudio/ProductDetail.aspx?ProductID=15369 I'm thinkin Crutchfield sucks!!!

The trick to using less voltage from your battery is a low impedance system. Say you use an amp that has 2 ohm capabililties, and 2ohm speakers, you get more power going to the speakers without having to crank so much power through the amp. 4 ohm speakers are the norm. Les resitance = less power needed. You can actually get more power out of your amp too. If you use an amp thats rated @ 4ohms and try to run 2 ohm speakers you could fry your amp though.

I just noticed. I linked the wrong Infinities. (rear speakers) I bought the Kapas. http://www.crutchfield.com/App/Product/Item/Main.aspx?g=52300&i=1086937I&tp=91 You got a lot of goods for a great price. I'm sure you'll enjoy fishing much more. I'm thinking you'll need an amp now...

This is what I installed. It's a pretty good sounding unit in all but it cost a bit. I run 2 house batts and a battery mgmt. system on my boat so the amps draining the batteries aren't really a problem. It depends on the sound your looking for. I think it's worth the cost to me so... Stereo http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/producte/10001/-1/10001/244077/377%20710%201437/0/TV's%20&%20Stereos/Primary%20Search/mode%20matchallpartial/0/0?N=377%20710%201437&Ne=0&Ntt=TV's%20&%20Stereos&Ntx=mode%20matchallpartial&page=CategoryDisplayLevel1&isLTokenURL=true&storeNum=5003&subdeptNum=3&classNum=10877 Amp http://www.crutchfield.com/App/Product/Item/Main.aspx?g=218950&i=693ME400&tp=714 Front Speakers http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/producte/10001/-1/10001/136045/377%20710%201435/0/Speakers/Primary%20Search/mode%20matchallpartial/0/0?N=377%20710%201435&Ne=0&Ntt=Speakers&Ntx=mode%20matchallpartial&page=CategoryDisplayLevel1&isLTokenURL=true&storeNum=5003&subdeptNum=3&classNum=435 Rear Speakers http://www.crutchfield.com/App/Product/Item/Main.aspx?g=52300&i=1089623I&tp=91 I think the Bose and Infinities match up great for sound. The Bose handle highs & midrange very clearly while the infinities (with crossovers that are supplied) put out great bass. They are polypropelyne so the elements don't bother them. My unit also accepts my MP3. I added a little to it every year now it really rocks.. Cazz, I like that stereo.. Too bad all those goodies weren't offered when I bought mine. It was on sale and so I couldn't resist. Nice unit.

I run hoochie rigs through late spring & summer for kings & steelhead with some success. I usually rig the mylar behind the squid and in front of the trailing beads but dont see any reasson your setup shouldn't bring on a few strikes. Good luck!

I use a canon. The display is large enough to read from the stern. Just a thought based on my only obstacle in reading while at the stern. I mounted mine at the helm and expected to be able to either ask my depth should I have another driver or read it from the stern. I find myself constantly asking what's the depth at the ball? I'll either get a call out from the FF or a simple huh? Then I just say Move you head!!! lol... If you mount it on the dash, don't mount it in a manner that an occasional alternate driver will be blocking your view. Perhaps the passenger side, center dash or stern would be optimum.

Same here, I run PP two or three years and at the beginning of the season I'll strip off 10' or so and tie off to my scale. If it maxes out it's good. If it breaks before 50Lbs., I change it out. After three years I usualy just change it out. Led Core, I usually don't worry so much as it tends to see a shorter life span due to the dreaded tanglidas.

Same Here. Yeller... Cuz I can see it better.

I may be interested in two the same color as your site logo. 12" decals would be great. Can you do that?

I was just going to comment about that. What about the site logo on the sides and greatlakesfisherman.com across the back? I think that logo would look nice aft on the sides.

I run a single engine w/three batts. I have a 94amp alternator w/modified pulley to give a higher charge at a lower RPM. (Check alt. RPM max before modifications.) I use one of these: http://www.bepmarine.com/Single-Engine%2C-Two-Battery-Banks-180-1463.html I'd recomend this one for you. http://www.bepmarine.com/Twin-Outboards%2C-Three-Battery-Banks-180-1465.html or you can use this one. http://www.bepmarine.com/Twin-Inboards%2C-Three-Battery-banks-180-1466.html I recomend this system for two reasons. It's self actuated and basically does it's own thinking and you won't accidently kill an alternator by shutting off a switch. The second reason, I've had mine almost 4 years and it's never failed me. I run many extras including an inverter and have never had a dead battery. It works, that simple. I'd also recomend having you batts tested prior to any work.

It's spelled different than others... That the biggest difference. Killer Prices Great Alternators. http://www.boatbandit.com/alternator-2365.aspx I'm not sure you'll find one much higher than 94. peruse this site. The bolt up configuration has everthing to do with your engine and application by part. I couldnt find a better price but that was a couple years ago.

I vote the Asian Carp..... Well okay, theyre not that big yet but just give em a few years, they'll be huge and so plentiful they'll be jumpin in your boat...

Something else I was thinking about adding to the boat this spring. http://store.humminbird.com/accessories/system-modules/weathersense-barometer/prod405130-1.html

I'm glad i don't have a list like the ones posted. Seems like every season it's been that way. Work work work on the boat and try to get it ready. Last season I had some major repairs that kept me out of fishing for a great deal of the season. I got all the bugs worked out by late summer but work wouldn't allow me to fish the fall run. Subsequently, I have for the most part with exception of a good cleaning and wax job, a fresh boat to start with. I do want to add to my stereo system this spring. Nothing major, just an amp and two more speakers.

Man, I havent been home since New Years. I hope to thaw the ole pig out and get crackin here in about two weeks though. I don't have any updates but I'd like to get her in and have the ball gears and maybe the diaphragm changed .

I've been using this one for a while now. I added a second light fixture shortly after building it and it makes my spoons and spinners glow real nice.

I like the tiaras but my first choice (saying if money was not an issue) would be by far the Albemarle 360 Express. Second choice, in real life would have to be 84 or later model Tiara 26' Open.

For the arch (permanently affixed) basically to light my cockpit and sarrounding area I use two 55W trapezoid flood lights. For aided night lighting in the cockpit I use two simple accesorry lights with red lenses. If I need to setup post dusk or pre-dawn I run the spreaders for all other conditions I use the red lights. This cuts down on my loss of night vision. I also have two lights under my rigger boards (amber) for lighting up an area around the boat. The amber lighting is enough to see out a ways and also cuts down on loss of night vision. The amber still takes a few moments for night vision to return however it's not as obtrusive as the white light.