GLF

Thats not it Steve. The shaft of the outdrive slides into the engine coupler. Here is a picture of the coupler. http://www.sterndrive.info/sterndriveparts/engine_coupler.html

I see Mercury recommends this be greased every 50 hours. I wonder when the last time this one saw some grease.... Whats easier? Pull the outdrive and change, or slide the engine foreward and change?

It is getting near the end of the season. Here is a list of things I found to check before you put your boat away for the winter. 1. Install gas stabilizer 2. Change engine oil and filter 3. Change fuel filter 4. Drain block, manifolds, circulating pump and coolers. 5. Fill block, manifolds and circulating pump with anti-freeze. 6. Check all belts and hoses. 7. Check shift/throttle cables and settings. 8. Change gear lube. 9. Check gimbal bearing 10. Grease u-joints and gimbal bearing 11. Lube engine coupler splines 12. Check and replace anodes as needed 13. Run, decarbon and fog engine 14. Spray electrical connections with corrosion guard 15. Check steering and power trim Please add to the list if something is missed.

This is the same drive the had the beat up prop. It is splined. I hope when the engineered it, they designed the coupler to give out before the shaft.

OK.....I have searched through some pictures. It is not the gimbal assembly. It is the engine coupler. The outside of the coupler spins and the outdrive shaft does not.

Thanks for the link Steve. I had some free time and went and looked at the boat again, and discovered the shift linkage is not the problem. By looking at it, I am guessing the problem is where the outdrive shaft slides into the gimbal assembly(does this sound correct?). The shaft is not turning, but the gimbal assembly(or whatever it is called) is spinning. I have some more searching to do so I can get a better understanding of everything. Any help???

I believe it has alpha drives, and it has a shift cable. I thought I heard a whirlling noise when I put it in reverse.

We are about one week from closing on our other house. So. I have been looking at boats. We have two small childer (5 and 2) so I want something with a lot of room for them to play without having to worry about them being in the way. I found a boat that my wife and I like. It is a 1987 Sea Ray 270 Amberjack. I grabbed Dirty Dog and we went and looked at it yesterday. The port prop was chewed BAD! I started it dock side and shifted each drive into fwd and rev. The port drive did not feel like it wanted to engage properly when shifted to reverse. Possible shift cable out of adjustment??? While looking the boat over I found a spare prop. I brought my wife and boys up there today to show them and take it for a ride. The prop was changed and it was time for the test ride. I backed it from the dock and I was soon on my way to the other end of Muskegon Lake and back. A nice boat ride later, I was idling back into the marina. As I was idling near the dock, I put both drives into neutral and then reverse to stop the boat. The starboard drive went into reverse and the port drive did nothing I put both levers in neutral and tried to shift the port drive into foreward. No vwd or reverse on the port drive I am heading back up there tomorrow after work to take another look at it. Any ideas?

Does anyone know the procedure for shift linkage adjustment on a Mercury Alpha Drive?

I am guessing this fawn may not make it through the winter. Hopefully someone does not shoot its mother.

You only need to come out of one service box. If you have pvc plumbing, you will want to attach the bond wire to the water line coming in from the the well or city(not sure if you have city or well water. Grounding rounds. You have to have 2 grounding rods no closer than 6' apart.

One more thing to note Steve. You have to bond to the water lines with #4 copper. This is based on the 200 amps your have coming in.

Thats what I am thinking.

I am not sure about the diameter. You should be able to see a wire size on the outside of it. Look for some white printing on the black sheathing.

For your wires up the mast from the meter bus bar, you will have to size it for a 200 amp service. This will be 2/0 copper or 4/0 aluminum. You will also have to change your ground wire size. You will need #6 copper wire from one of the 100 amp panels to the two grounding rods. Mike

Steve, I have to find my electrical code book. I am not sure where it's at. When I find it, I will get you your answer.

I have several Toms that have been attacking my basement window. Here are a couple of pictures of a Tom struting beside my basement window. This last one is a video of him pecking at the glass. You can hear him peking against the glass. The other noise you hear in the back ground is my hot water heater starting up. http://www.greatlakesfisherman.com/gallery/misc.php?do=downloadfile&i=536 Do you think I can contact the dnr about a turkey(s) that is about to commit damage. I have proof!

Let me see if I understand your question correctly. You will be feeding two seperate meter sockets for 100amp service each, with one set of wires? You may use aluminum or copper wire. Aluminum wire does not have the ampacity(current carring capability) of copper wire so you will need to use a heavier wire if using aluminum.

Welcome to the site Paul. If you need anything, let out a yell. Mike

Its not bad reeling in 10 colors once or twice. But after you do it 6 or 8 times.....

You guys from Lake Ontario love to taunt us with those pictures of those big kings. Keep up the good work.

Man you guys sure have some pigs on Lake Ontario. I will definately have to make a trip over there next year.

I passed up on a full core rip. The fish ended up being a 13.4 lb brown trout Maybe I will not be so lazy next time.

Another great detailed report. Thanks for the report Tom!

Happy Birthday Ratcityhooker. Take some time off today and go fishing on your Birthday. Hope you get lots of shiny tackle for a presents.