MY2SONS

What do you guys use when using heavy cannonballs on the riggers (14#) to eliminate the shock on the line at the end of the decent/retrieve? I've heard there's some sort of shock absorber some guys use, but I'm not sure what it is. Since I can't get out and fish I might as well start stocking up for next year right?

Pics please

Here is a picture of one of the reels. Hope it comes through.

I have two brand new, never used, big lake setups that I want to sell. They are both Okuma Convector CV55 reels spooled with full core lead. They're both mounted on 8' Shimano Talora rods with stainless steel eyelets. I have too many rods, and need to sell a couple so I can buy more gear. Make me an offer. They go to the highest bidder:grin:

Not quite sure why but my owners manual says not to use full synthetic oils in my engine. It's a 6.2L Mercruiser engine. I run full synthetic in my trucks (Mobil 1), but they recommend Mercruiser brand oil. (I know, I know, they're always going to say there oil is the best, but WTH).

From what I've been told by my boat manufacturer the stabilizers will prevent the gas from turning to varnish, but it won't "neutralize" the ethenol it will just help by controlling moisure in the fuel. Humidity obviously isn't a problem in the winter, but there's moisture that collects in the fuel tanks at the gas station especially if you buy from a station that doesn't have a lot of fuel volume being sold. Non-ethenol fuel has a lower absorbtion rate then with the ethenol alcohol which draws moisture.

The reason some places recommend running the tanks dry is because the fuel that contains ethenol draws moisture and is subject to phase seperation, and half-full tanks would leave a lot of room for condensation to build. Ethenol strips vital lubrication from the cylinder walls, and other metal parts leaving it vulverable to corrosion from the moisture. If you can find gasoline that doesn't contain ethenol fill your tanks to the top, and use Seafoam to stabilize it over the winter. Marina's have non-ethenol gasoline. Fogging the cylinders, and flushing the engine with -100F marine antifreeze will prevent costly repairs if your boat is kept in an unheated garage, or outside.

I fill both my tanks with gasoline that doesn't contain ethenol (i.e. "marina gas"), and then add Seafoam to stabilize the fuel during storage. I called the manufacturer of my boat and asked what they recommended and he said Seafoam was preferred over Stabil. Port Sheldon Party Store has non-ethenol gas at pump #5 if anyone who lives in this area is interested.

Thanks for the info!

I've heard of a quick oil drain tube that connects to your oil pan, and runs out through the drain plug hole. Anybody have any history of using these? If so, please advise. Also, does anybody know where I can find one. A while back somebody had a post dealing with this specific item, but I can't find it. Getting ready for the inevitable winterizing zoon:(, and I have to change get my stuff together.

Have any of you guys used JRC electronics such as the JRC Plot 500 Fishfinder? If so, what are your thoughts. I haven't heard much about JRC in the past and wanted to see if they are a decent brand of electronics to buy vs. lowrance, Furuno, Garman, etc.

That waterspout looks a little too close for comfort.

You can always tell a fisherman vs a pleasure boater on the water. I recently purchased my dream boat. A 2003 Baha Cruiser 277 GLE, and it's my pride, and joy. I didn't have the funds this year to slip it since it's relatively cumbersome to trailer with a 9'6" beam on her so I'm stuck with the public DNR launch. Upon docking I was getting my gear in line ready to be taken off, and put in my truck when along came a pleasure boater who lost control of there boat and bumped into the starboard side of my boat. The moron just sat there, and stared at me without even saying they were sorry. Normally I would have came unglued and let him have it, but I remained calm since there wasn't any visible damage to my boat besides a scuff that can be buffed out. I went to get my truck, and as I was backing in my trailer I was letting my emotions get the best of me as I saw him walking up the ramp. I stopped him and said "You know you could have at least said your sorry after bumping into someone's boat". He didn't seem like the sharpest knife in the drawer so I cut him some slack after he appologized. It may have gotten ugly had there been damage to my hull that required repair. Some people are so inconsiderate of other people's property.:angry2:Sorry just had to vent.

I had the same problem on my fiberglass boat, and when I went to West Marine they guy there showed me some various brands of hull cleaner. I commented on how expensive they were, and he said "You know, I've spent the last 20 years as a chemist, and if you want to save some money go to Wal-Mart pick up a bottle of The Works toilet bowl cleaner. It's the same thing, and a heck of a lot cheaper". You have to get the one that has hydrogen chloride (hydrochloric acid) in it, NOT bleach. That and a $2.00 sponge mop from the Dollar store, and it wipes right off. Be sure to use gloves that cover your hands, and arms because it is caustic. Eye protection is a must too. A drop of that stuff in your eyes, and your blind.

Thanks for the useful tips. I'll check to see how easy it is to get to the oil drain plug.

Guys, what is the best unit to buy for changing oil on an in-board? I checked at West Marine on a couple units that suck the oil out through the dipstick hole, but they had bad reviews for leaking, and being underpowered. I'd like to change the oil in my boat before I take it out, but not sure what the best unit would be.

Any thoughts on brand of downrigger? I've always had Cannons, but I hear a lot of good things about Big Jons. I like the idea of supporting Michigans economy since they're made here, but not familiar with them. Any Big Jon owners opinions would be helpful......Cannon owners too.

Originally I had a 17' 2001 Lund Fisherman, and was quite satisfied with it, but the wife didn't like it because it was too small for her and the kids to go on. At the time this wasn't a problem for me since the hours I fished was long before they even got out of bed. I told her that we could sell mine with the understanding that we had to get another on in the near future (2-3 year time frame). She agreed and after explaining what creature comforts she was expecting on a boat, and what I required for fishing I found the Baha Cruiser. I immediately fell in love with the design, and my wife liked the cuddy for the kids. She finally caved in after months of talking about needing a boat, and how nice it would be to take the boys out fishing. It worked! She's a great wife, and very understanding even though she never lets me forget how much I spend on fishing equipment.

Yes, she's a keeper (both my wife, and the boat). I'd love to get the boat rigged for this season, but I've been spending money like Obama so looks like next year, or Christmas, will have to do.

By the way thanks for the help on getting it uploaded. JRS

Here goes. See if this works. I bought a 2003 Baha Cruiser 277 GLE . No fishing equipment on her yet with the exception of rocket launchers, radar, GPS, and fish finder. Next year I'm planning on downriggers, rod holders, and a 20 Hp kicker.

I haven't got her outfitted with riggers, rod holders, and the like, but at least the hard part was achieved.......convincing the wife I needed a boat. Still trying to figure out how to upload a picture of her. Any suggestions?

Thanks for the reply. Te stripper doesn't harm the gelcoat in any way does it?Where did you do this at? I read that if any of the paint washes off and gets on your lawn the grass will be killed for years due to the copper content.

Any suggestions on removing old bottom paint. I know it's bad stuff, and shouldn't be dry sanded, and any paint removed has to be considered hazardous, but there's got to be an effective, inexpensive, and safe method for removing this paint.