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Everything posted by boomerang
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Thank-you, Now I Wont Be So Selective About Posting Pics
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hey dad here is what i got going on, i dont know where to get this thin plastic tubes and caps, i get the stuff from my bro who works in hospitial, but maybe you can try craft store/hardware/dollar store but shouldnt be hard to find if you look for it, and the boxes are just plain old disposable food storage containers and if you want to write the leader lenght in sharpie on the tube and the color and or name of fly on the box, this is how i do it........and i am doing it WELL!!!! john
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i guess i am the only guy who will post here maybe?? launched today 1st time in 2008 water temp 38F shakedown cruise all went well and systems normal ops check OK.
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try giving charlie checker a call he has TONS of stuff and i think you may find what you are looking for, he is located in LaSalle, MI near Monroe,MI www.checkermarine.com
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caznik, There is a $50.00 fine for any more than 12. is that a $50 fine for every rod holder over 12 or just $50 if you go over?? i just want to be clear about this so when i go collecting the funds i get the correct ammount....john Aka the "enforcer"
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so ya think you have alot of options in buying a sonar unit, from what ive seen/read and experienced you have tons of different transducers as well, the better sonar heads well work much better and you will get better performance with a more expensive transducer, even with a sonar unit with less power output will work much better if you couple it with a more top of the line transducer.....good luck in your search.....WELCOME TO THE SITE!!!
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nice job frank, BTW WHAT was the cost of material etc, ect and when it was all said and done what did it cost to make the two of them???
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THX guys!! i know some of these type filters get oil, but wasnt sure about this one, and as you said frank the breather gets connected to it.
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OK, ive cleaned it and want to know if before re-installing it, do i oil the steel rings or just put it back on dry?? and if oil is required what type??? thx JOHN
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welcome to our happy place....just about a little of everything chatted here....feel free, this place is great colective of fish catching brain POWER!!!
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i am SOOOO done with snow!!! BUT got all the anti-freeze out and up and running all systems normal....now when i get my courage up, to da launch
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oh.....if i had a million dollars.......you could get the best of both worlds......one word.....FLYBRIDGE!!!!!!
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curb feelers??? huh..frank...??? next youll be asking if fuzzy dice hanging from your rear view ski mirror makes your islander get up on plane faster pulling two skiers!!!!
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HAPPY EASTER ALL!!! and BTW march 21st was the 1st day of spring!!!!!!
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although most transducer cables are sheilded make sure you DONOT run the cable in the wire harness with the other electronics wires if you do this may cause the display to pick up lots of electricial noise and display it on the screen as LOTS-o-CLUTTER, when you mount the transducer try to follow the directions closely and get the ducer in the smoothest as possible, if the water flow over the transducer has air bubbles in it or is turbulant, again youll get LOTS-o-CLUTTER, anoter thing try to get the ducer as far down in the water as possible, lastly when you ground the power cables do as the directions say and if your not happy with the results try directly grounding to the battery or if it is already grounded to the batt and your not happy try grounding to the engine ground or some ground strap...john
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Lund tyee 1850 Downrigger set-up?
boomerang replied to drathaar907's topic in Boat Maintenance and Rigging
DRATH, when running lead you are supposed to let all the lead line out, a full core is usually 10 colors at 10 yards per color or 100yards. also you have to let a ammount of your backing out (i let out 50-100ft) as well to allow the lead to sink. imagine if you have your rod in a holder and the rod is pointed skyward and you stop right at the end of the core you probbly have close to one color in the air, if you do that you will not get the lead to sink fully and get the acheived dept you are trying to reach!!! john -
Lund tyee 1850 Downrigger set-up?
boomerang replied to drathaar907's topic in Boat Maintenance and Rigging
as you may know 3 poles per licence, so how many people will determine how many rods you are legal to run, i highly reccomend you get some tracks and mount both downriggers on the gunwall with one running off the back and the other off to the side, this will keep a wide spread and a "clearing" on your stern for fish netting, make sure to measure twice and cut/drill once, use 3M 5200 or GE rtv 102 caulk to seal the tracks and the drilled holes, stainless steel screws/bolts and nylon lock nutz and done forget a backing plate under the gunwall, frank recommended using one of those thick plastic cutting boards, (wish i thought of that) i used plate aluminum or ive heard plywood, FEEL FREE to put out anymore questions you may have -
ive got single action paasche siphon feed H-set has 3 needles/nozzels here it is http://www.paascheairbrush.com/single_action.html and GET this one its like $10 works like a million MASTER AIRBRUSH model# MAS E-93 with 0.8 mm nozzel tip http://www.tcpglobal.com/airbrushdepot/massyph.aspx
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anybody ever see a sail boat with downriggers????
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ok. so if your going to try to spray glow paint??? make sure you get the biggest nozzle you can, ive done it with a 1.2 and 0.8. most guns are 0.3, 0.2 or 0.5. if you dont have a larger orifice the little glow particles that are suspended in the paint will not flow and the particles will clog the gun. WHAT A MESS!!! 1st hand experience talking here!! and before spraying glow you MUST prime with WHITE paint!! you will most likely need to thin the glow paint, follow the manufactures giudelines carefully!! good luck and have fun!! john
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tons of places, from the local H.W store ie. ACE just go spray!! vinyl is great against chipping but hard to apply unless dipping and let it drip dry, what do you want to paint?? http://www.csipaint.com/
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Trailer brakes should be adjusted at least once a year, more often depending on the miles traveled, the severity of the downhill grades, and the amount of stop and go traffic that is encountered.This is a chore that most people with average mechanical skills should be able to handle. You will need a brake adjusting tool, available at most tool supply stores,or you can get long thin straight screwdriver heat it up and bend it, a jack capable of safely lifting the trailer, and a jack stand to hold the trailer in the jacked position.The following steps are a guide to properly adjusting your trailer brakes. What this entails is the adjustment of the star wheel which in turn sets the brake shoe to brake drum clearance. This adjustment is important - as the brake shoes wear down, the clearance increases. The actuating mechanism must travel further to effectively apply the brakes and a point can be reached where the mechanism is no longer able to so. Adjusting Boat Trailer Brakes Park the trailer on firm and level ground. Block the trailer tires on the opposite side securely so that no forward or rearward movement is possible. Jack up the trailer following the manufacturers instructions. Secure the trailer on jack stands of adequate capacity front and rear. At the back of the wheel, on the brake backing plate, there is a small rubber plug near the bottom of the backing plate. Pry out this plug to give access to the star wheel adjuster. Some trailers have a drop axle suspension system and the axle covers most of this adjusting hole making it difficult to use the brake tool. Patience will win out in the end if you keep at it. Insert the brake adjuster tool and maneuver it so that the tool engages with the teeth in the star wheel. The star wheel looks like a gear with exposed teeth on the perimeter. On most trailers you would pull down on the tool handle which levers on the bottom of the hole and turns the star wheel up (as you are looking at it from the back of the wheel. Just to make it more difficult, the star wheel is located well inside and some maneuvering is required - a flashlight will help to locate the star wheel. Turn the adjuster until the brake locks up, i.e. you can no longer rotate the wheel by hand. This centers the brake shoes on the brake drum so that they are in the correct position. Now back off the star wheel 8 to 10 clicks or as specified by the manufacturer. The wheel should spin freely with no apparent drag to slow it down. A slight scraping noise is normal as the wheel turns. Repeat this procedure for all the wheels. Congratulations, you have successfully adjusted your own trailer brakes ... that wasn't so bad, was it? Feel free to contact me if you have any questions or need any assistance, JOHN
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frank you have auto pilot?? or running like a redneck auto pilot (bungee cord or steering wheel!! john
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SHU plz let me know how your testing goes, as this is one cant go fishing without it and is one of the most expensive running a close second to $4 gal marnia gas pump price!!!!
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pat, i know ive got a "97" and you forgot one of the best part, on dogs days when fishing is slow, just the significant other and yourself, CUTTY CABIN BABY!!! i am sure many guys on here have them, frank (priority1) has one so chime in if you have any issues or questions, we try to help eachother as much as we can!!!